96 Club Car DS 48V motor type confusion.

[NismoGriff]

So, the IQ conversion.... is it just the sub harness from the controller to the solenoids & motor or is it and entire chassis harness? Are there any decent controller/motor/harness packages out there?

The campground that we are at has some hills. I don't know whether or not to call them large for a golf cart because, well.... I don't golf and haven't been on a golf course in 20+ years. I also plan to lift it and put larger wheels/tires on it. I don't think they will be huge, but bigger than stock. Just the wife and I, but I may put the fold down rear seat so we have the option to carry visitors or a load of firewood every once in a while. That being said, I'd like a top speed of 15-20 mph and enough torque to handle the hills/load if y'all wouldn't mind making some recommendations.

[jakesnake27]

It's the entire harness, every wire on the cart.

If you plan on a lift and bigger tires, an upgraded controller is what you'll need. Talk to David at RGC. He knows these things inside and out, and sells motor/controller/cable packages as well as the OEM IQ harness.

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

It's the entire harness, every wire on the cart.

If you plan on a lift and bigger tires, an upgraded controller is what you'll need. Talk to David at RGC. He knows these things inside and out, and sells motor/controller/cable packages as well as the OEM IQ harness.

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com

I was perusing his site, good stuff there. I have a buddy dropping off some batteries tonight so I can see if the cart will do anything as it is. I have my doubts that it will.

In regards to the red wire that isn't connected. I cannot make out all of the color designations on the wiring diagram located on this site. I found a diagram for a 97 Regen 1 cart on another site, but the colors seem to be different on that one. Is there a source for the diagram on this site that might show up a little more clearly?

[Sergio]

Here is a high resolution Regen 1 wiring diagram:

[Fairtax4me]

If there's no fuse on that wire then it probably goes to Pin 1 of the controller, which should be a 48v input to the controller. Probably won't work without that.


Before you hook up batteries in that cart, make sure the motor wires are connected properly. Any short between those or any touching to the motor case, or chassis of the cart could kill the controller, assuming it even works.

You should also test the motor for continuity, and check to see if it runs.
Continuity test. All wires removed.
A1 to A2, F1 to F2, should have continuity.
Any A terminal to any F terminal, should have NO continuity.
Any A or any F terminal to the motor case should have NO continuity.

Motor run test with a 12v or 16v power source (jumper pack or cables).
Make 2 10awg jumper wires to connect A1 to F1, A2 to F2.
Make sure the wheels are off the ground, parking brake released.
Connect 12v positive to A1 terminal. 12v negative to A2 terminal. The motor should spin. If it does not there is an internal fault in the motor.

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Here is a high resolution Regen 1 wiring diagram:

Awesome, thanks so much!!

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

If there's no fuse on that wire then it probably goes to Pin 1 of the controller, which should be a 48v input to the controller. Probably won't work without that.


Before you hook up batteries in that cart, make sure the motor wires are connected properly. Any short between those or any touching to the motor case, or chassis of the cart could kill the controller, assuming it even works.

You should also test the motor for continuity, and check to see if it runs.
Continuity test. All wires removed.
A1 to A2, F1 to F2, should have continuity.
Any A terminal to any F terminal, should have NO continuity.
Any A or any F terminal to the motor case should have NO continuity.

Motor run test with a 12v or 16v power source (jumper pack or cables).
Make 2 10awg jumper wires to connect A1 to F1, A2 to F2.
Make sure the wheels are off the ground, parking brake released.
Connect 12v positive to A1 terminal. 12v negative to A2 terminal. The motor should spin. If it does not there is an internal fault in the motor.

I am going to run through the schematic before I hook up batteries, it's another reason I wanted a higher resolution copy.

I was thinking that red wire did indeed go to the controller and now that i see the high res version of the schematic I am 99% sure.

I did do the testing procedure on the motor. Funny thing is, there was no continuity between A1 and A2 so I was going to go ahead and chalk it up as a loss but decided to move forward with the test and to my suprise the motor still spun.


Man, you guys have all been great so far.... really appreciate it

[simicrintz]

Originally Posted by NismoGriff

Yeah, it seems I could buy a relatively good shape Precedent for what I would have into a motor, motor controller and batteries for this cart, but I am for some reason already really attached to this cart. I like the styling and the chassis looks like it is in very good shape! The wife wanted a cart for the campground (first year having a seasonal site) and I almost dropped $5K on lightly modded one at a local dealer. I found this on market place for $750 and figured that if I spent the same amount of money building this cart myself, I'd have a much nicer unit and I'd know way more about it. I can buy a relatively good shape Precedent for what I would have into a motor controller and batteries.

I am on a similar path as you. My cart was free but in rough shape and I have somewhat fallen in love with it as well. My thinking is also similar: I could buy one in better shape (but I would still tweak with it!) or I can build what I want and how I want; I'm good with the latter.

I'll attach a few before and current pics; hang in there!

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by simicrintz

I am on a similar path as you. My cart was free but in rough shape and I have somewhat fallen in love with it as well. My thinking is also similar: I could buy one in better shape (but I would still tweak with it!) or I can build what I want and how I want; I'm good with the latter.

I'll attach a few before and current pics; hang in there!

Good looking cart!

Mine wasn't free but it was cheap enough to gamble on. I'd say at this point it was not the best gamble but even if I spend as much money or more than I would have on a built cart I'll feel better about it compared to just buying it. The wife however may not like the timeline lol.

[simicrintz]

Thank you, NG!

I'm with you on building it as you want. I knew I wanted a 6" lift (check), thought I wanted 12" wheels but got 14" inch (check), bought a Lester onboard charger (got it), and have ordered a speed and torque kit that I am waiting for. I've painted all the aluminum for the roof black, had the seats redone and have a OEM black roof on order (should be here this week). Am doing the 48V conversion and should be all in (before paint) at around $3,600 or so and I am good with that. I am sure that if I bought a $5,000 "finished" cart it would not have some of that stuff and I would just spend more on it.

Not everyone wants to build there own and I get it, but it works for me!

[NismoGriff]

Originally Posted by jakesnake27

It's the entire harness, every wire on the cart.

If you plan on a lift and bigger tires, an upgraded controller is what you'll need. Talk to David at RGC. He knows these things inside and out, and sells motor/controller/cable packages as well as the OEM IQ harness.

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

You have a sepex Regen 1.

If you want to get that cart running your best bet is to contact Dave at "Revolution Golf Cars."

As far as the red wire, where is it coming from?

IQ conversion kit, level 4 Alltrax controller/motor upgrade and Summit II charger ordered.