85' Club Car still acting up

[LG3]

So I replaced the resistors and two of the solenoids that I was getting no reading from and the cart worked again. It was a glorious moment for someone with *zero* mechanical skills (see attached photos). Since then I've put probably 30 miles on it with no issues. Sooo much fun... until today.

Today after a short ride. Parked it. Started to drive away.. and it gave out on me again. (solenoids continue to click, batteries are good, no movement in f or r)

I brought it back home and assumed the problem was probably another solenoid had went bad. When I test them I'm getting readings from all of them. The Manual says I want to get 55-60 ohms from each, but I'm getting readings that bounce from 60-130 (the two that were broken before gave me zero reading at all). Could the bounce be from my shitty harbor freight voltage meter? Does it have to stay at 55-60 ohms?

If their fine the next test is the Manual is the F/R Switch. I don't understand the terminology they're using.... "Red probe on "Common" terminal lug (short) of the F& R switch and the black probe on the heavy black wire of the F & R Motor" ... "Red probe on "forward terminal lug (bent) of the F & R switch and black probe on heavy white wire terminal of the F & R rotor"

What are the terminal lugs? And the heavy white wire? Only one I see goes to the motor itself?

Someone save me! :)

If you're available for phone troubleshooting send me a pm please and I'll happily call you (and buy you a beer if you're local to naples fl)

Thanks!

[shadowman]

don,t pay attention to meter readings when dealing with solenoids, jack the rear up and jump the master solenoid......furthest left one see if it runs....if so replace it chances are all your old solenoids were same age and you didn,t replace it......it might have went south on you.........if its bad replace it and the others you didn,t the 1st time.................................

[LG3]

Tom, how do I "jump" the master solenoid? I ordered a few more and plan on replacing all of them, but I'd like to try that first.

[LG3]

And when you say "furthest left" is that furthest left in my photos?

[scottyb]

The master solenoid is closest to the driver's side of the cart. It activates (closes) first.

[LG3]

Thank you.

And how do I jump it?

[scottyb]

LOL you are in dangerous territory now ... careful there is enough amperage to weld with involved here, the master solenoid has one side hot all the time. You are going to by pass the solenoids function by installing a battery cable from one large post to the other... this is for test purposes only. The cart should run. It is safest to do this with the rear wheels held up off the ground ...

[LG3]

Rest of the solenoids arrive tmrw so I figured I'd wait until then and see if replacing the rest solves the problem.

In the interim I went out to the garage and figured I'd try the pedal again and what do you know it works again. Took it for a 3 mile ride no problem.

What the hell? Can the solenoids work and then not work and work again? Must it be something else? Seems awfully strange or is this par for the course with something this old?

[simple man]

A solenoid can absolutely work and then quit and start working again! Also just because it clicks doesn't mean it's working! The contacts inside get pitted and worn. They can make a connection, then when the contacts open and close again they have moved a little and the pitted areas don't line back up, and therefore don't make a connection.