Solenoid Clicks but cart does not move, QP0399 Pathway Golf (IQ-P)

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Lochlin

You should be able to jump your solenoid with a jumper cable. Just connect the cable to to each of the solenoid's large posts. All this really does is take the key switch out of play. If it runs when you hit the accelerator then your solenoid is likely bad. If still nothing then see if you are getting 48v at the small solenoid terminals with the switch on. If nothing then your switch might be bad or a wiring issue. You probably know this but solenoids are nothing more than switches that allow a low current circuit (from the key) to open a high current circuit (the motor). You can open the high current circuit manually with a jump but nothing should happen until you press the pedal. If none of this works then something else is amiss which a real expert will have to chime in on.

A disclosure, I have a Pathway but I won't claim to be an expert with it. I am applying knowledge from my other carts here. If I am off-base I apologize and hopefully someone else will chime in with a correction. I am only trying to throw you some information.

And I may not be reading your post correctly, but to rewrite in my terms of explaining, the solenoid (Main Contactor) has 48v on the battery side large post and then the 48v + & - are applied to the small posts which allows the energizing coil inside to "pull up" and closes in the circuit allowing the 48v to pass through and into the other large posts' cable that is on the controller side of the solenoid. If you jump across the solenoids 2 large posts, you are taking the internal operation of it (and any switches and + & -) completely out as now you are mechanically bypassing the solenoid and completing the 48v circuit meaning power is now going to the controller. If the cart operates correctly then you have proven that the problem lies prior to that part of the circuit (or inside the solenoid) and you can check the small terminals for 48v + & - and then check the switches and MCOR/V-Glide etc. until you find the gremlin that is keeping you out of completing the circuit.

Now I used broad statements above as there are wiper arms, pads, micro-switches, output signals, key switches, terminal ends, cable ends, plugs, etc. etc. that all play into troubleshooting these things....

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by beachsideandy

If I jump the solenoid like you suggest, I only need one rear tire off the ground when jacked up right? I am assuming these things have some type of limited slip rear?

Yes.

[beachsideandy]

OK great. I leave in about an hour to go home.
Let the good times roll ha ha!
Thanks again for all the info!

[beachsideandy]

Well I jumped the solenoid by moving the yellow wire which looks like the controller power to the red pole from the battery. Still get a click click but cart doesn't move. What is the next thing to test?

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[beachsideandy]

How can I test to see if the motor is getting correct voltage at F1 F2 A1 A2 posts on it? What exactly is each pole?

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Did you jump across the solenoid as described by Lochlin? You need to try that and make sure you are getting the current across it.

Did you look at the drawing I gave you and trace everything out? You need to do that too and make sure you are not missing something....

[beachsideandy]

What's this box on the floor with the red wire going to it?

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[beachsideandy]

Yes I jumped it with a heavy 2 gauge cable. Click click but motor does not fire.

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[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by beachsideandy

What's this box on the floor with the red wire going to it?

That looks like your fuse carrier

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by beachsideandy

How can I test to see if the motor is getting correct voltage at F1 F2 A1 A2 posts on it? What exactly is each pole?

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Place the Run/Tow switch in "Tow" and then disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it).

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

Now flip your meter to Ohms/Resistance and:
- Test between F1 and F2 and you should get 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Sepex motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to F1 and then a jumper from A2 to F2. Connect 12 volts positive to A1/F1 and 12 volts negative to A2/F2. You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

And remember that you are only "testing" the motor so you don't want or need to engage it very long.