wired motor wrong on a EZGO and now it won't run.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

1. Good news.

2. Hopefully you meant Voltmeter.
By saying B+, I mean fully battery pack voltage.
Only dropping 6V isn't good, either controller or ITS is bad.

ITS stands for Inductive Throttle System. Basically it is a coil of wire and when you push the throttle pedal, a metal rod is pushed into the coil, changing its inductance.

Quick check:
When solenoid clicks, the voltage on Pin-2 (Black wire) of the 10 pin connector on top of controller should be slightly above 14V, but under 16V.
If that is right, measure voltage on Pin-1 (white wire) while slowly pushing pedal to floor.
Should be about 0.5V when solenoid first clicks and goes up to greater than 1.5V when pedal is on floor.

3. Sounds like the "Professional" royally screwed up the throttle box microswitch.
When the pedal is up, the lever on the microswitch should be pushed toward the microswitch housing, opening the NC (Normally Closed) contacts.

The adjusting procedure is in the service manual.

How do I go about testing the voltage of a single wire? I thought you needed both a positive and a negative to complete a circuit and measure voltage...

As for the gas pedal switch, I removed it from it's bracing, tested it and found it in good working order. I put it back without connecting it to the wires, tested it, and it worked fine(I even saw a little video on how to test it so I know I did it right). Here's something weird, even when the switch is disconnected, the solenoid still trips Trying to investigate this problem, I found that the two wires from the micro switch have contact between them which traces back to inside the controller somewhere, is this bad?

Thanks for all the help, if I fix this, my boss will love me

[apostle]

Originally Posted by yurtle

Get that puppy up on some jack stands!

Did that when I took the motor out last week, I even rigged up a little engine puller, it looked real professional! Unfortunately, the golf cart hasn't left the jack stand for a week now

[tcascario]

To check the single wire attach the negative from the DVM to the main pack negative.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by tcascario

To check the single wire attach the negative from the DVM to the main pack negative.

I shall do this.

[apostle]

I tested the black and white wires coming from the ITS. I got 14V on the black one, but got no reading at all on the white. I am thinking my cheap multi meter may not be able to test such small voltages. I will get a better one and report back.

[JohnnieB]

tcascario is right about attaching Negative DVM lead to Negative post on battery pack. Sorry I left that out.

Since the "Professional" was Poking and Hoping in the throttle box, the white or black wire might be broken or disconnected.

Pop the 10 pin plug off the controller and measure between the black and white wires in the plug with an Ohmmeter.
I'm not sure how many Ohms you should read, but it will probably be over a hundred because the ITS coil is a very long length of very thin wire.

[apostle]

Got a better meter today. Here's what I found.

Black wire has 14.5 volts.
white wire has .45 volts at no throttle, and 1.72 at full gas.
From what I now know(which is very little) this seems like exceptional results. Is this a good working ITS?

[JohnnieB]

Those voltages tell me the ITS is doing its job.
That means the controller is being told to pass amps to the motor, but isn't, so the controller is bad.

Like Scottyb said earlier, replace it with something other than a stock controller.

[scottyb]

I would be happy to fit it with a custom program HD NPX400. Not only are they less expensive than the original type but the increased amperage means more power

[apostle]

Originally Posted by scottyb

I would be happy to fit it with a custom program HD NPX400. Not only are they less expensive than the original type but the increased amperage means more power

Power is good. How much for the controller? Would any modifications be necessary? How could I get a hold of it? Would someone of my caliper be sufficient to install it?

Regarding the motor, I tried hooking it up directly to a 12V DC current, and it didn't turn. I only had two of it's four terminals wired to the batteries, but I figured it should have run anyways. Do you think so?

Thanks