wired motor wrong on a EZGO and now it won't run.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Those voltages tell me the ITS is doing its job.
That means the controller is being told to pass amps to the motor, but isn't, so the controller is bad.

Like Scottyb said earlier, replace it with something other than a stock controller.

Here's the thing though. The controller is passing juice(I know this because two wires spark), I am going to test to see if the controller is passing both positive and negative voltages where it should. After triple checking everything, then I will get a controler.

You guys rock! couldn't have done anything without ya

[tcascario]

Just for your information when I had a problem similar to this I changed the controller and its because the tests were pointing me that way and then it ended up being the motor was fried. Not saying that's what yours is just passing on info.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by tcascario

Just for your information when I had a problem similar to this I changed the controller and its because the tests were pointing me that way and then it ended up being the motor was fried. Not saying that's what yours is just passing on info.

I will definitely take that into consideration. Thank you for sharing. Although I'm pretty sure the motor is good, but just in case, I'm gonna triple check it!

[apostle]

Tested the controller voltages Today. One set of wires has 30 volts continues, regardless of throttle position. the other set has voltage fluctuating in between 3 and 5 volts at no throttle, and then 5 and 8 volts at full throttle. This seems fishy to me.

A triple check on the motor reviled it to be in good condition. I'm almost ready to get a new controller.

[tcascario]

How are you checking the motor? Just wondering what method?

[apostle]

Originally Posted by tcascario

How are you checking the motor? Just wondering what method?

The method was described to me on this thread, go back in time and you'll find it.

[tcascario]

I ended up taking mine to the shop and they tested for continuity on the contacts of the motor and had it. New controller still didn't fix the problem so they pulled the motor opened it up and said it looked like a melted ball of solder. Replaced the motor and everything ran fine after. The shop said they have had continuity before when the motor was still bad and they are a very busy shop.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by tcascario

I ended up taking mine to the shop and they tested for continuity on the contacts of the motor and had it. New controller still didn't fix the problem so they pulled the motor opened it up and said it looked like a melted ball of solder. Replaced the motor and everything ran fine after. The shop said they have had continuity before when the motor was still bad and they are a very busy shop.

Testing for continuity between terminals is only the first half of checking motor with an Ohmmeter.
The second half is checking for undesired continuity between stator and armature windings and between the windings and case.

Ironically, motors that still run, but have carbon dust build up from brush wear, will fail the second part.

[apostle]

I hooked up the motor directly to batteries in a fashon described to me by another professional, and it turned! TAH DAH!!! I am moving on to get a new controler, hopefully this cart will be back on the road soon

[apostle]

BAM ZOOM!!! got a new controler (and solonoid for good mesure last week) and the golf cart fired rite up! So thankjs for all you help folkes

Ok new problem, when under a heavy load, the golf cart doesn't act rite. When going up a hill, I can hear the motor revving up, but the cart loses speed. The back wheels are keyed to the drive shaft and are in good order. I am thinking the problem must be in the gear reduction unit. Any words of wisdom before I tear into this one?

Thanks