96 DCS goes,stops,and alarms

[bsparks]

All, I have 96 TXT w/ DCS controller. that will only travel 50+ ft and dies and then alarms. I have been through every test i can find and to my knowledge my cart passed them all. Voltage is correct. I have load tested every battery (but with an old school load tester) the pack seems to be good. With cart on jacks it will run forever, but you put a load on it and it goes a few feet and stops. The only thing that sticks out is the selenoid never makes and audible click. Installed a brand new on that clicks on a PDS cart but not on mine. I used Stickys for troubleshoothing. N othing wrong still no go. Still have my doubts whether pack is good,
Thanks in advance for all comments.

[bsparks]

Also, i have a brand new DCS controller harness, old white 10-pin connector was worn out.

[JohnnieB]

Not being able to hear solenoid click is troubling.
Obviously it does, or the cart would not move at all.

On a DCS, the solenoid gets B+ via the KSI circuit (Key Switch and Interlock)
and then gets B- from the controller via the blue wire that attaches to Pin-7 on controller.

Try this:
Connect negative DVM test lead to the B- controller terminal.
Connect positive DVM test lead to the solenoid terminal that Blue wire attaches.

With Run/Tow in Run, Key ON and either F or R selected, you should read Full battery pack voltage.
If not, you are losing some voltage along the wires someplace.

If so, push throttle pedal. The voltage should drop to Zero.
If not, the blue wire or controller is bad. (Or it might be a bad connection between B- at battery pack and B- at the controller)

Monitor that voltage while driving to see if solenoid drops out.

Of course, the problem could be many other things, but that one is waving a red flag.

Let us know what you find.

[bsparks]

First of all I thank you for your time. I have a couple hour drive and I will try what you suggested and get right back to you.

[bsparks]

Ok At blue wire side of selenoid, key on, in Forward and Run/Tow in run i have pack voltage of 40.3

Checked while driving and in the 50 ft that it ran before shutting down blue wire side of selenoid just dropped to 39.9 volts

Removed and cleanded B- lug on controller and battery pack with same results.

Now here is a brain teaser for you, looking back at some notes I wrote down when disassembling this cart, ( cart was running fine before i took it down to the frame) "Need to add wire from drivers side of selenoid to B- of Battery Pack". But when putting cart back together, armed with proper wiring diagrams that didnt have that wire I never re installed it. Do you think this is what madew it work before? I have pictures showing three wires tied to the B- of the battery pack. I remember the wire it was ragged and had bad crimps on both ends I intended to replace it.

[bsparks]

Havent driven cart yes but adding wire from B- of pack to blue wire side of selenoid gives me an audible click from selenoid for first time since i put cart back together.

would this be dangerous or harmful to any of my components, running like this?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bsparks

Havent driven cart yes but adding wire from B- of pack to blue wire side of selenoid gives me an audible click from selenoid for first time since i put cart back together.

would this be dangerous or harmful to any of my components, running like this?

Dangerous? Yes!!!!
Harmful to components? Probably not.

For safety reasons, among others, the solenoid is supposed to de-energize and disconnect the battery from the motor when you lift your foot off the accelerator. With the extra wire added between B- on the battery pack and the blue wire side of the solenoid coil, you have to either turn key off, shift F/R to neutral, flip Run/Tow switch to Tow or insert charger plug into charge receptacle to de-energize solenoid.

If you ran into someone or something with the cart wired that way, you might as well just sign a blank check, hand it to the plaintiff's lawyer and save yourself court costs.

-----------------

The pack voltage you posted was a bit high, so I'm guessing that the batteries were just taken off charge.

The fact you had any voltage at all on the blue wire side of the solenoid coil while the cart was moving, tells me the controller wasn't turning on Pin-7 on all the way or there is a bad wire or connection between Pin-7 on controller and the solenoid coil.

Try measuring the voltage on Pin-7 through the backside of the plug on the controller. (Without extra wire installed)
If it still has voltage while pedal is pushed the controller is bad.
If it doesn't, the blue wire or its connections are bad.

If the controller is bad, replace it with an aftermarket one and you'll have a torque monster that runs quick also.

[bsparks]

Remember I posted that the controller harness is brand new, but when i get home i will do the test you suggested and report back to you. I think that we will find that the controller is at fault.

This is the first time i have posted on a forum and cant thank you enough for your time.

Which one of the sponsors would I call on to get a new aftermarket controller?


Thanks Again.

[scottyb]

You could contact Carts Unlimited

The choice is totally up to you, all of the BGW sponsors are good guys, who stand behind what they sell.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by bsparks

Remember I posted that the controller harness is brand new......................

Yep, I remembered, but I also remember the countless times I have received bad parts.

Like Scotty said, the site sponsors will have what you need.
He has some kits that have worked out well for numerous DCS owners.
Check out the 505 and 606 packages about 2/3 down the page.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

If nothing else, there is a lot of interesting reading on his site.