G16E conversion to 48V

[cmcnice]

Hello,
I am new to this board, I’ve done a lot of searching online and reading and have a project I’d like some help with. I am trying to learn how to convert my 2002 G16E to 48V. It runs well currently, the lead cell batteries are shot and I am considering upgrading to a 48V lithium battery system since I need new cells anyhow. I think I understand from my reading that the stock motor can handle 48V but I need a new controller and solenoid. Can someone explain further or point me to a conversion kit that would work? The more specific the better. Also what level of work is involved - does cart need to be lifted off the ground, or can everything being replaced be done accessed easily? Does it involve rewiring or major body work or mostly swapping out old for new? Thanks in advance.
-Craig


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[cgtech]

New Alltrax controller from ScottyB's place (www.cartsunlimited.net). You will have to cut some wires off the old controller and put new ends on to hook them to the new controller. Stock motor will be fine. Stock F&R won't last long. Stock solenoid was a quality one, but it is incorrect voltage.

[cmcnice]

Originally Posted by cgtech

New Alltrax controller from ScottyB's place (www.cartsunlimited.net). You will have to cut some wires off the old controller and put new ends on to hook them to the new controller. Stock motor will be fine. Stock F&R won't last long. Stock solenoid was a quality one, but it is incorrect voltage.

Appreciate it cgtech. I've contacted Scotty and am looking at the options for my cart. Will definitely get the new Alltrax controller and solenoid. By the F&R you mean the forward and reverse switch correct? Do I need a new one right away or why won't it last long if I convert? Do I need to re-wire the cart or can just cut and re-attach everything as you mention? Thanks!

[cgtech]

Just cut and reattach. Not whole rewire. Stock F&R was a weak link, and a more powerful controller is gonna help it "leave town".

[cmcnice]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Just cut and reattach. Not whole rewire. Stock F&R was a weak link, and a more powerful controller is gonna help it "leave town".

Alright. Rather than wait for it to die I’ll upgrade it off the bat. Glad to hear that I don’t need to wire the whole cart, I have read here and elsewhere that some recommend doing that with the higher voltage battery and 500 amp controller and that the original wiring will bottleneck things. Thanks.


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[cgtech]

If you are going larger than 300a controller, all battery cable sized wires will require replaced with 4g or 2g cable, not house wiring either, welding cable.

[cmcnice]

Originally Posted by cgtech

If you are going larger than 300a controller, all battery cable sized wires will require replaced with 4g or 2g cable, not house wiring either, welding cable.

OK -- so all wires to and from the battery pack need upgrading to 2G, the rest can be just reattached or replaced if not in good shape w standard 14g automotive wire, correct? Any other advice for installing, wiring everything including the F&R switch is much appreciated. Thanks!

[scottyb]

For clarity
The term wires refer to the small control wires each the size of a spaghetti noodle
Cables refers to the large battery type high amperage leads which may be 6g - 2g depending upon the application.

[cmcnice]

Appreciate the clarification. Want to be able to communicate about this accurately going forward. Will be ordering everything later today.


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[scottyb]

Attached is an older AXE control diagram showing the control circuit wiring and the heavier high amperage cables in thicker lines. Typically these 2 types of wiring (wires and cables) are referred to as the control side and the high amperage side of the drive system.

Now you can say I have a problem with the control side wiring or the high side delivery with confidence