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Old 05-14-2019, 06:59 PM   #11
chrisr32
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

In the original post it says "It is blowing blue smoke out of the muffler, assuming it is burning oil." if driven and monitored on a regular daily basis - how much oil is being burned if any? An over rich fuel mixture can cause smoke.

Need more info before I would be tearing down a engine and/or recommending to someone spending $$$ as well as their time to tear down an engine.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:12 PM   #12
cgtech
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Oil makes blue smoke, fuel makes black smoke, coolant makes white smoke.. there, that was easy.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:18 PM   #13
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Just pointing out that he says "It is blowing blue smoke out of the muffler, assuming it is burning oil." is it really burning oil and if so, how much? What type of oil 10w, 30w, 10w40... how does it run? Lots of unknowns where oil is cheap vs the alternative.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:44 PM   #14
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

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Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
Oil makes blue smoke, fuel makes black smoke, coolant makes white smoke.. there, that was easy.


As said, you can do a basic rebuild for under $100. Rings, rod bearings, gaskets, and a quick hone job to deglaze the cylinder and give the new rings something to seat to and itll be fine.

Or keep feeding it oil and smoking out the neighborhood whenever you drive it. Itll probably still run for years that way but the smell and the smoke show gets old.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:58 PM   #15
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Thanks everyone for your replies.

Let me provide a few more details:
Oil change was done just before winter here in Canada. Cart has been stored below freezing temps for about 5 months.
Oil was Castrol 10W30. Exactly 1 quart was put in.

Since I didn't know the maintenance record of the cart, I decided to adjust the valves. Intake valve had extreme play. Exhaust one was a bit off.

I will be putting more miles on the cart over the weekend and will try to measure how much oil is being burnt.

I don't think I am enough mechanically inclined to tackle the "rebuild" of the engine.
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:31 AM   #16
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

So, your dipstick isn't reading above about 2/3 up in the crosshatches, right (that's where 1qt will show). Bad needle in carb will dump fuel, that eventually ends up in the oil. Too much "oil" in the crankcase ends up feeding back in to the intake tract to be burnt, sending the blue smoke signals.

Yamaha had a odd, but quite reasonable, theory with their golf cart dipsticks. The correct amount of oil at oil change reads about middle of crosshatches. when it reads full on the stick, your oil is contaminated with enough fuel that it needs changed. Keep in mind, they had to engineer a vehicle that is expected to run 200 yards, then stop while some fool tries to hit a ball, run 200 yards, [repeat cycle endlessly until the golf course lease is up in 4 years]. They could assume that most of these things would never make long enough "long haul" trips to "bake off" all the water & fuel that ended up in the oil.
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:20 AM   #17
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

All good points. Burning oil can also be caused by a bad valve seal and/or valve guide. This is why I suggested using some Rislone or Restore. Sometimes the valves and rings get "sticky" with the abuse of this type of engine, lots of start/stop cycles in it's lifetime.

Here's what I would try:

Drain oil, refill with cheap 10w30 but substitute 25% of the oil with Seafoam or Engine Flush. Run the engine in neutral for 20 minutes at varying throttle positions. Drain oil, refill with cheap oil again. Run for another 10 minutes. Drain and refill with good synthetic oil, but substitute 25% with Rislone or Restore.

The Seafoam is a solvent that breaks down varnish, wax, sludge, and carbon deposits. These contaminates can cause oil blowby at the oil rings and at the valves. A dirty engine can also have less power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENuR_QqsbTI

The Rislone works by helping to seal worn cylinder walls and valve guides. Chemicals bond to the metal, but the metal needs to be cleaned, hence the Seafoam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkO1PpL6fws

The synthetic oil has smaller molecules and different anti wear additives that allow it to coat the metal better, and last longer because it tolerates heat better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5MT_oDzkdk

I have done this with several small engines and while it doesn't "fix" a problem, it will help an old worn engine run a little longer. Keep in mind that you will need to change the oil more often, and you will have to repeat this process every time you change the oil. It'll take you about an hour from start to finish, probably twice a year.

1.) If the problem gets better, cool! The products did their jobs.

2.) If the problem gets worse, you pretty much need a rebuild due to excessive wear. Getting worse means that the worn parts had a thick film of buildup on them that partially sealed the cylinder walls/rings and valves. Cleaning the film exposed the worn parts more, allowing more oil to pass into the combustion chamber.

Might as well give it a try. It'll cost you about $20, an hour of your time. But I think it's way worth it. If it doesn't work, you're only out $20 and an hour. Pretty low risk.

Ray, why don't you take a drive over and rebuild his engine for him?
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:42 AM   #18
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by kingarthur View Post
Thanks everyone for your replies.

Let me provide a few more details:
Oil change was done just before winter here in Canada. Cart has been stored below freezing temps for about 5 months.
Oil was Castrol 10W30. Exactly 1 quart was put in.

Since I didn't know the maintenance record of the cart, I decided to adjust the valves. Intake valve had extreme play. Exhaust one was a bit off.

I will be putting more miles on the cart over the weekend and will try to measure how much oil is being burnt.

I don't think I am enough mechanically inclined to tackle the "rebuild" of the engine.
Unless it is REALLY burning oil, or you REALLY drive the cart a lot (like several hundred miles) you're probably not going to be able to measure the amount of oil it burns in a weekend. It takes very little oil to make a LOT of smoke.

I have tried the engine flush stuff in the past, and it does do a good job of loosening sludge and stuff. I had an ezgo that turned fresh 20 minute oil into black tar it loosened so much... but that was a 2008 or 2009... not that old of a cart, and rings were stuck with sludge due to previous owner not changing the oil.

I still had to rebuild the engine.

Your cart is 30 years old. You're welcome to try it, but I just would not expect it to do much good. I tried it in my G9 after seeing how much crap came out of the ezgo. No change, it still smoked like a train so that one was next on the rebuild list. I just did as rayhd and I suggested, hone, rings, bearings and it still runs great, no smoke, to this day.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:48 PM   #19
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by slonomo View Post
All good points. Burning oil can also be caused by a bad valve seal and/or valve guide. This is why I suggested using some Rislone or Restore. Sometimes the valves and rings get "sticky" with the abuse of this type of engine, lots of start/stop cycles in it's lifetime.

Here's what I would try:

Drain oil, refill with cheap 10w30 but substitute 25% of the oil with Seafoam or Engine Flush. Run the engine in neutral for 20 minutes at varying throttle positions. Drain oil, refill with cheap oil again. Run for another 10 minutes. Drain and refill with good synthetic oil, but substitute 25% with Rislone or Restore.

The Seafoam is a solvent that breaks down varnish, wax, sludge, and carbon deposits. These contaminates can cause oil blowby at the oil rings and at the valves. A dirty engine can also have less power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENuR_QqsbTI

The Rislone works by helping to seal worn cylinder walls and valve guides. Chemicals bond to the metal, but the metal needs to be cleaned, hence the Seafoam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkO1PpL6fws

The synthetic oil has smaller molecules and different anti wear additives that allow it to coat the metal better, and last longer because it tolerates heat better.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5MT_oDzkdk

I have done this with several small engines and while it doesn't "fix" a problem, it will help an old worn engine run a little longer. Keep in mind that you will need to change the oil more often, and you will have to repeat this process every time you change the oil. It'll take you about an hour from start to finish, probably twice a year.

1.) If the problem gets better, cool! The products did their jobs.

2.) If the problem gets worse, you pretty much need a rebuild due to excessive wear. Getting worse means that the worn parts had a thick film of buildup on them that partially sealed the cylinder walls/rings and valves. Cleaning the film exposed the worn parts more, allowing more oil to pass into the combustion chamber.

Might as well give it a try. It'll cost you about $20, an hour of your time. But I think it's way worth it. If it doesn't work, you're only out $20 and an hour. Pretty low risk.

Ray, why don't you take a drive over and rebuild his engine for him?
Anybody that thinks some snake oil is going to fix a worn engine is really kidding themselves.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:17 PM   #20
chrisr32
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Default Re: G2 - Blue smoke - Out of ideas

Anyone who thinks they can do a quality rebuild with any engine "The rings,rod bearings,side cover and head gaskets come to $73. Add a torque wrench and clutch puller and maybe you are just over $100." is sadly mistaken. This assumes the bore is straight, not tapered, rods and crank do not need to be re-sized and they just happen to have a dial bore gauge, valve grinder, feeler gauges, ridge groove remover, veneer caliper, dial indicator, ring compressor, valve seat grinder, tool to install new guides, and micrometers at their house - just saying, that not all motor rebuilds are that easy or cheap...and a little thinking out of the box goes a long way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by raydhd View Post
Anybody that thinks some snake oil is going to fix a worn engine is really kidding themselves.
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