Starting and Running in FN & R

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by ckiguy

I Also Read On Here That The K And N Filters Are No Good In These Engines, Due To They Basiclly Allow To Much Air In To The Engine.

ONLY if you keep the stock carb Jet!

I have a K&N #33-2022 (fits in the air box) with a jet that is (I think) 1 size larger,
The universal cone filters require a jet that's 2 or 3 sizes larger,
(that's a guess... Tom (BBM) could answer that one better!)

Just a "FYI"

[Nudiver]

Tune up was first thing I did after bringing it home with new air and fuel filters, plug and fresh oil change. It ran better. Im thinking that a dirty carb may be my problem since it starts and runs so smoothly after its warm with no issues at all. This was the main reason I wanted to be able to start in N and idle up to speed up warming up which only takes 30 secs. Are there gaskets that need replaced on the carb after it is removed and are you saying take it completely apart to soak and clean?

[lockman1]

30 seconds to warm up??? so it starts right away, but doesn't run well initially?
Here I was thinking, you were cranking for two minutes before it started!

Before you tear into the carb... run the full tank of gas with the carb cleaner in it first,
See if that helps, If not... pull the carb and clean it!
and yes... there are "up to" 4 base gaskets you may have to replace,
But, with your 2000, they may still be o.k. to reuse if your careful!
(I did on my 07! )

Go ahead and make it idle, (per the instructions)
And drive that cart until it runs out of gas!!!
If you still have the "Cold bloodedness" Then tear into the carb!

[lockman1]

Two more things...

"Seafoam" is the only additive/cleaner I use for all of my engines!
(don't mix it with what you have in there already though!)

And get yourself a service manual... you'll be happy you did!

[DOOmsman]

Lockman, when he does and he should, take the carb apart he should use a set of welding tip cleaners (gently) in the passages. Not just a spray and blow cleaning.
I have never gotten a carb clean without a tear down.
A clean carb is a happy carb and a happy carb makes a happy cart owner.
sorry for that but we say it all the time about sleds.

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by DOOmsman

Lockman, when he does and he should, take the carb apart he should use a set of welding tip cleaners (gently) in the passages. Not just a spray and blow cleaning.
I have never gotten a carb clean without a tear down.
A clean carb is a happy carb and a happy carb makes a happy cart owner.
sorry for that but we say it all the time about sleds.

[ckiguy]

the carb gaskets are a thin metal ones. i have 2 on my 99 and they are still ok. the oring for the bowl to carb bae is the one i wuld worry about. you have te , or i have to pull the bowll off before i can slide my carb off the studs to clear the black electical box. there is also a cardboard type gasket between the air tube snout and the carb, ut it shold come off and be reuseable. if not its around 2bucks at a deler, or a kawaski engine dealer. the engine is coded only for club car, but you can get the parts elsewere. you justneed to get the kaw part number.

[Nudiver]

Today I removed the black wire off of the micro switch and turned up the idol. It works perfect. It idles nicely and when I shift into N the motor dies and into R to be restarted via the foot pedal and visa versa. After I clean the carb I may change it back but as for now it helps with warm up.

[lockman1]

Yep... mine does that also! (I've gotten used to it!)

[wwilkens]

I just found this thread and wanted the ability to have the engine idle without the clutch engaged too. However, when I disconnected the black wire from the microswitch, nothing was any different. I understand this wire is supposed to be the pedal kill circuit - so I'll try to go through the wiring schematics to see if I can figure it out. However, if someone has a suggestion - I'm all ears.

Thanks,,

Wes