Possible MCOR issues, replace or fix?

[Sergio]

Here is a link for your controller manual:

http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/STAR%2...%20Ver%20N.pdf

I can only think he was trying to protect the motor from excessive current, but all the way counter-clockwise would limit the current to 250amps, I would hope that motor can take more amps than that.

Let me add one thing, be careful with the "CA" Controlled Acceleration set screw.

Do not be too aggressive, if the controller allows too much current to the motor while the motor is not spinning too fast and the motor cannot turn that current into torque, it will be 100% converted to heat.

[scottyb]

Sounds like a misdirection. Maybe somebody mis-spoke or misunderstood? CL should be 100% clockwise.

[brewginger2.5]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is a very small voltage drop for a cart under load.

Make sure the controller is not under "Current Limit", the "CL" set screw (closest to the controller terminals) is all the way on a clock-wise position.

You can also put the probes on the controller B+ to M- and make sure you are getting a similar voltage, if it is much lower, the controller is limiting the current.

The next step would be to verify the Motor is actually seeing that same voltage and You are not having a voltage drop on a cable, connection or FNR.

You need to move the probes to the 2 motor terminals connected to B+ and M-.

On a stock club car in forward, it should be A1 to S1.

If you are getting that same voltage there, maybe that is all the torque your series motor can do at that RPM.

My mistake, the Cl was clockwise, and it was all the way down.

My A1 and S1 off motor are connected to f/r switch.

A2 is attached to M-

B+ goes to solenoid

Does that make sense? Does the motor just need to be rewired?

[Sergio]

That are several correct ways You can wire the controller, FNR and motor.

As long as the armature coil ends up in series with the stator coil, the motor works fine.

In addition to the solenoid connection, Your B+ should go either to a motor terminal or to the FNR switch.

If it goes to the FNR, follow which motor terminal is connected to it (S1 or S2) when the FNR is in Forward.

That will be the motor terminal where you put the positive lead of the Multimeter.

The negative probe of the Multimeter will go on the A2 terminal.

[brewginger2.5]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That are several correct ways You can wire the controller, FNR and motor.

As long as the armature coil ends up in series with the stator coil, the motor works fine.

In addition to the solenoid connection, Your B+ should go either to a motor terminal or to the FNR switch.

If it goes to the FNR, follow which motor terminal is connected to it (S1 or S2) when the FNR is in Forward.

That will be the motor terminal where you put the positive lead of the Multimeter.

The negative probe of the Multimeter will go on the A2 terminal.

Just to make sure it's set up correctly:

M- goes to A2
B+ goes to solenoid, then to pack+
B- goes through OBC and to pack-
F on switch goes to S1
A1 goes to f/r switch, on the side
S2 goes to R on switch

[Sergio]

That is not a conventional way of wiring it, what wiring diagram did You follow?

The way You describe it, the other "fixed" terminal of the FNR must be going to pack positive.

The issue with that is the solenoid is no longer disconnecting the power to the motor.

Typically the positive power to the motor comes after the solenoid, normally it shares the B+ terminal of the controller.

The Club Car standard wiring for Forward is:

B+ -> A1 -> A2 -> S2 -> S1 -> M-

Yours is:

B+ -> S2 -> S1 -> A1 -> A2 -> M-

It is electrically equivalent since the current flows the same direction through the motor coils as it does in the Club Car OEM wiring.

Your Meter positive will go on the S2 Motor terminal.

Your Meter negative will go on the A2 Motor terminal.

The difference in max voltage You will see going up hill at this point will be the voltage drop accross the cables, FNR and the controller efficiency.

It should not be more than about -2v from what you measured at the controller B+ to B-

[brewginger2.5]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is not a conventional way of wiring it, what wiring diagram did You follow?

The way You describe it, the other "fixed" terminal of the FNR must be going to pack positive.

The issue with that is the solenoid is no longer disconnecting the power to the motor.

Typically the positive power to the motor comes after the solenoid, normally it shares the B+ terminal of the controller.

The Club Car standard wiring for Forward is:

B+ -> A1 -> A2 -> S2 -> S1 -> M-

Yours is:

B+ -> S2 -> S1 -> A1 -> A2 -> M-

It is electrically equivalent since the current flows the same direction through the motor coils as it does in the Club Car OEM wiring.

Your Meter positive will go on the S2 Motor terminal.

Your Meter negative will go on the A2 Motor terminal.

The difference in max voltage You will see going up hill at this point will be the voltage drop accross the cables, FNR and the controller efficiency.

It should not be more than about -2v from what you measured at the controller B+ to B-

That was the way it was wired when I purchased it, could that be an issue? Should i rewire it? I'll test and report back. Thank you!

[brewginger2.5]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is not a conventional way of wiring it, what wiring diagram did You follow?

The way You describe it, the other "fixed" terminal of the FNR must be going to pack positive.

The issue with that is the solenoid is no longer disconnecting the power to the motor.

Typically the positive power to the motor comes after the solenoid, normally it shares the B+ terminal of the controller.

The Club Car standard wiring for Forward is:

B+ -> A1 -> A2 -> S2 -> S1 -> M-

Yours is:

B+ -> S2 -> S1 -> A1 -> A2 -> M-

It is electrically equivalent since the current flows the same direction through the motor coils as it does in the Club Car OEM wiring.

Your Meter positive will go on the S2 Motor terminal.

Your Meter negative will go on the A2 Motor terminal.

The difference in max voltage You will see going up hill at this point will be the voltage drop accross the cables, FNR and the controller efficiency.

It should not be more than about -2v from what you measured at the controller B+ to B-

47.6-47.7v under load

[Sergio]

That is a pretty good voltage at the motor, less than 1v from battery pack.

If you are getting 13mph with 23" tires, that is about 2400rpm, that may be the max torque that motor can develop at that rpm.

The nice thing about Sepex motors (your friend's cart) is that the controller can lower the field current, also called field weakening, to allow the motor to go fast without lowering the Armature current.

It can also increase the Armature current independent of the Field current if needed.

There are ways of reducing the field (stator) current on a series motor by shunting the field with an external solenoid.

If the issue is too much field current (because it is the same as armature), the motor will go faster, but if the issue is the motor is at its horsepower limit (HP=Torque x rpm), the motor will overheat.

At this point my best guess is that the bandit modification may not be a good fit for your 23" tires and the grade you are trying to go up.

[brewginger2.5]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That is a pretty good voltage at the motor, less than 1v from battery pack.

If you are getting 13mph with 23" tires, that is about 2400rpm, that may be the max torque that motor can develop at that rpm.

The nice thing about Sepex motors (your friend's cart) is that the controller can lower the field current, also called field weakening, to allow the motor to go fast without lowering the Armature current.

It can also increase the Armature current independent of the Field current if needed.

There are ways of reducing the field (stator) current on a series motor by shunting the field with an external solenoid.

If the issue is too much field current (because it is the same as armature), the motor will go faster, but if the issue is the motor is at its horsepower limit (HP=Torque x rpm), the motor will overheat.

At this point my best guess is that the bandit modification may not be a good fit for your 23" tires and the grade you are trying to go up.

I can't thank you enough for your assistance! I was hoping for a different result. PQ said I should be going faster than I am. Would I need more torque motor, or speed?