Yamaha G-1 carb to exhaust ball joints needed

[twobore]

I recently rebuilt my ’83 Yamaha G1 golf cart engine and it runs great. Only problem I’m having now is with the 33 year old plastic ball joints that connect the carburetor linkage with the muffler butterfly valve (that elaborate u-shaped linkage that runs from the carburetor, across the top of the magneto, then across the front of the engine to the muffler). The threaded plastic female parts of this linkage are all well worn and some are cracked which causes the plastic joint to fall off the ball. The Yamaha P/N’s are: J10-14833-00-00 (left hand thread), and J10-14864-00-00 (RH thread). They are items 20 and 22 in the attachment. A total of eight are required.

After extensive searches of all the golf cart parts stores, I find these parts were discontinued by the manufacturer and NLA. Has anyone found after market substitutes or other similar parts that can be adapted for this linkage? If not and you had similar problems, how did you solve it?

Thanks,

Twobore

[Field6565]

Do you have the clips? (#25 in the diagram) Usually those will hold it in place if the plastic part is worn.

[twobore]

Thanks for replying, Field6565.

I do have the clips and they help on some of the joints.

The one's I'm having problems with are partially split lengthwise and slip off the threaded rod. I've jury rigged various ties, but worry one might drop off during use causing the engine to overheat. If I can, I'd like to replace the worst of the offenders either with new or used replacements (is there such a thing as a golf cart wrecking yard?).

Twobore

[slonomo]

Someone here probably has some laying around. Post in the "parts" section and you might get a quick response.

On a side note, most of us disconnect all that garbage and hook the throttle direct to the carb, eliminate the governor, and take out the butterfly valve in the exhaust. If you want to go that route, let us know, we can help you do that too.

[twobore]

Thanks, Slonomo. Those are great suggestions.

I just went to the "Parts" section and see my post is also already listed there. Hopefully someone will respond to it.

I had an idea that I will try in the meantime. Since my problem with the plastic ball joints is their splitting lengthwise along the threaded portion, I thought I would try first epoxying and clamping the split and then covering that area with heat shrink tubing, shrinking it tightly into place. Might even end up stronger than the original. I'll let the BGW community know how/if this works.

I will probably be getting back to you for advice on disconnecting the governor/carb linkage even if the above works. That kludge looks like something Rube Goldberg would have designed. Throttling the exhaust makes no sense to this old engineer. I presume it's designed to modulate the impulse pressure to the oil pump diaphragm allowing Yamaha's variable 150:1 to 300:1 oil injection(?). But, the exhaust butterfly valve is spring loaded and if the linkage fails, the valve will snap to closed position which will (most likely) quickly overheat the engine.

Right now, during break in I'm running 65:1 mixed while testing the oil pump. I disconnected the oil pump outlet line from the carburetor and running that line into a container, I'm trying to figure the output of the pump by comparing the amount of oil in the container against a measured amount of consumed fuel. Is there a better way to check these oil pumps?

Thanks,

twobore

[slonomo]

65:1 is very oil rich. It doesn't need that much oil. Chances are high that oil is building up in the muffler, very common problem when over oiled. The oil just spits out the exhaust and drips down the pipe. Some gets burned off, if the cart is used on long rides, but most carts run for a few minutes then stop. Pipe doesn't usually get hot enough to burn the oil off. Once it builds up in the muffler, it will smoke like crazy.

I ran mine at 85:1 for a bit, then switched to 100:1. That seemed to be the ticket. Ran that for a couple years, lots of trail riding and yard use. No smoke, no wear on the cylinder walls. Good mix. Also the kind of oil made a difference to me. I ended up with Echo brand air cooled oil from Home Depot. Great stuff, and cheap too.

Oh, and advice is always free here! LOL

[jgoody]

Could someone point me in the direction of removing the governor? sounds like a great plan!

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by jgoody

Could someone point me in the direction of removing the governor? sounds like a great plan!

Search around here more, its been done in several different ways, and is generally not difficult. The arm on top of the transmission is the governor.

[Spicyunicorn]

Pull the arm off the top of the rear end and drill the hole out one size bigger than the shaft coming out of the rear end so you can move the arm freely (don't tighten the clamp on the arm) then tack weld a washer on the top of the shaft so the arm still moves freely but can't move up off the shaft... Only bad thing about this way is its permanent if you don't have another arm make sure you put spring back on the arm before you tack weld the washer

[Spicyunicorn]

Pic is with govener still hooked up was just showing what "arm" I was referring to