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Old 12-27-2010, 11:46 AM   #21
tazassape
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

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Originally Posted by berthasquare View Post
How about adjusting the carb screw to a position that is equivalent to half-pressing the the pedal? And by-pass the microswitch. Also, engage the clutch in neutral. Then turn on the key. See? I have done it without buying anything!
What happens when you put it in gear? I would imagine it will jump hard?
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Old 12-28-2010, 05:41 AM   #22
rocknrone
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

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Originally Posted by FireGuy 74 View Post
Yes, I have a 28 degree clutch, but you still need the stiffer spring for the drive clutch. Turning up the idle with the stock spring will engage the drive clutch and there goes your cart. If I remember right, there aren't tabs on the new spring like the stock one.

It is an easy and cheap enough modification just to buy the new spring and do it right the first time.
Thanks, I realized that you guys were talking about replacing the spring in the drive clutch and not the driven clutch about 30 minutes after I posted; what a newbie; but I was on a deer stand all day yesterday, and couldn't correct my post. Thanks for your help.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:23 AM   #23
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

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Originally Posted by tazassape View Post
What happens when you put it in gear? I would imagine it will jump hard?
Asuming the spring is in the clutch it shouldn't jump. The clutch has to be closed for it to jump. The only way for the clutch to close would be to have a soft spring or idle way to high.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:49 PM   #24
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

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Originally Posted by catsnw View Post
Asuming the spring is in the clutch it shouldn't jump. The clutch has to be closed for it to jump. The only way for the clutch to close would be to have a soft spring or idle way to high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by berthasquare
How about adjusting the carb screw to a position that is equivalent to half-pressing the the pedal? And by-pass the microswitch. Also, engage the clutch in neutral. Then turn on the key. See? I have done it without buying anything!


What happens when you put it in gear? I would imagine it will jump hard?
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:48 PM   #25
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

What about the belt? I thought of doing the same thing with mine, but as i look at the drive clutch spinning and the belt not, would that not put a flat spot on the belt? Especially if you let it idle for a few minutes? Just wondering?!

Jon
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Old 12-30-2010, 06:38 AM   #26
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

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What about the belt? I thought of doing the same thing with mine, but as i look at the drive clutch spinning and the belt not, would that not put a flat spot on the belt? Especially if you let it idle for a few minutes? Just wondering?!

Jon
Hadn't thought about that. Good Point. Maybe somebody with first hand info will shed some light on the subject.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:04 AM   #27
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

When you adjust the idle speed you set it to just under the drive clutch engagement. There is slack in your belt. If there wasn't the shaft column in between the two drive sheaves would grab the belt and force it to turn.

I have had mine setup this way for three years now and no problems what so ever. No flat spots!
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:49 AM   #28
FireGuy 74
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

I haven't noticed any problems with flat spots either.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:13 PM   #29
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

Ok, I installed this kit and it works great; except: How do you adjust the idle up to where it needs to be? I thought you just turned the pilot screw on the carb. I have the one that is the big plastic black knob(2008 ST Sport II 350 Subaru) on top of the carb, and I turned it until it hit the stop both ways and the idle didn't seem to change. So, I tried to turn it past the stops and bam, it broke off inside the carb. My brother is a small engine mechanic, and he deals with stuff like this all the time, so I'm pretty sure he'll be able to get the screw out, but am I adjusting the right thing to get the idle up? Does anyone know if you can get a replacement pilot screw? Where? I've looked at the carb breakdown in the service manual, and it doesn't show a replacement part for the pilot screw. Looked at many of the sponsors and no luck. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or the size of the pilot screw if I can't get an oem replacement. Thanks for the advice. PS. I know I should have let my brother look at it first, before I broke it off, since he's a small engine mechanic, but I am a do it yourselfer, and I only call on him if necessary.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:10 PM   #30
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Default Re: Wiring The Cart To Stay Running

i don't know how i've never seen this thread before. With the nasty weather up here in NH i've been going through microswitches like its my job. I wonder if this will work on older carts? say my early 89 marathon. anyone tried it on an older 2stroke cart?
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