2004 ezgo surging and beeping

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by yurtle

There's a MOLEX connector near the FNR, that has the throttle ITS and its microswitch. Mine needed cleaning.

OP has a PDS cart.

[Ploki]

What does a molex connector look like and where is the fnr? Have searched wiring diagram and cannot find it?
The cart definitely beeps and applies the brake when it rolls slowly forward
Cheers

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ploki

1. What does a molex connector look like
2. and where is the fnr? Have searched wiring diagram and cannot find it?
3. The cart definitely beeps and applies the brake when it rolls slowly forward
Cheers

1. You handled 5 of them when you cleaned the 5 Molex connectors that plug into the controller.
It has pin and socket type connections housed in a hard nylon housing.
The housing can be most any color, but the ones used on cart are typically cream colored or off-white.
There can be anyplace from 1 to 26 wires, maybe more.

2. The "fnr" is also known as the F/R, or F-N-R, or the Direction Selector as it is labeled on the PDS schematic.
On a TXT PDS cart, it is a rocker switch located on the dash next to the Keyswitch.
On a TXT cart with a series wound motor it is large high current switch assembly located at the front of the space where the controller is.

Trace the 4-wire cable from the throttle box under the floor board, back to the controller. There will be an in-line connector in it.

3. Okay, the speed sensor appears to be working.
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You said in an earlier post that you've replaced the controller, so my guess is that there is a loose wire or connection going to or from one of the seven sets of switch contacts the must be closed for the controller to activate the solenoid and do the other things it does to make the cart run.

A quick count tells me there is over a dozen push on connectors on the various switches, any of the could be causing the problem.

It could also be wires with frayed insulation shorting out.

[Ploki]

All these problems stem from a battery and lead change.maybe I shorted something?
I can hear a sound under the seat when it loses power.could this be solenoid?
Took it to a steep hill and it staggers up in a jolty fashion.
Help!

[JohnnieB]

If you didn't flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow when you changed batteries/ cables, you could have blown the controller, but you say you've replaced the controller.

The sound from under the seat could be the solenoid.

I might be wrong, but I think you have a loose connection someplace and when you hit a bump just so, it looses contact. When the contact returns, the controller finds that the cart is moving witth without going through the proper start up sequence of events and goes into the walkaway or roll-away safety mode.

It is going to be a bear to find because every connection on every switch is suspect.

[Ploki]

More news.I disconnected all the connectors into the controller as well as the ati sprayed them with a contact cleaner and re attached them firmly.now I have no beeping when I slow to a halt or loss of power but alas the cart only goes at half speed.can anyone think what could solve this new problem.when I initially got the auto electrician in the slow speed problem he thought was the controller as it had 36v going in and 18v going out.
Help!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Ploki

More news.I disconnected all the connectors into the controller as well as the ati sprayed them with a contact cleaner and re attached them firmly.now I have no beeping when I slow to a halt or loss of power but alas the cart only goes at half speed.can anyone think what could solve this new problem.when I initially got the auto electrician in the slow speed problem he thought was the controller as it had 36v going in and 18v going out.
Help!

now I have no beeping when I slow to a halt or loss of power but alas the cart only goes at half speed.

Are you saying that:
a. The cart is no longer "Surging and Beeping" like it was originally?
b. But now only runs at a slow speed?

If so, how slow is slow? (Approximately 2MPH? 8MPH? 12MPH?)
Is there a plug in J2?
If so, what color are the wires on it?

when I initially got the auto electrician in the slow speed problem he thought was the controller as it had 36v going in and 18v going out.

That statement raises several questions.
1. Where, exactly, did the auto electrician measure the voltages? (IE: Where was the DVM's negative test attached and where was the DVM's positive test lead attached, for each measurement.)
2. Was the voltage truly just 36V? (That is only a 50% State of Charge on battery pack.)
3. Did you, or did you not, replace the controller?
4. If the controller was replaced, was the Run/Tow switch in TOW when doing so?

[Ploki]

After an overnight sit the cart is back beeping and having power loss.so removing all connections and spraying them had an effect.it ran at half speed for about an hour b4 I gave up.there Is no wire connections in j2.whilst I was with the tech when he did his test I did not see where he got his readings he just said there was 36v going into the controller and only 18v coming out so I purchased a new controller I replaced it and had the switch off as well as the batteries disconnected.is it possible to replace all the connections? There isn't much room on the cables

[JohnnieB]

With no jumper wires between the pins in J2, the max speed is going to be about 13MPH.
When you state the cart is moving at "half speed", is the cart going about 13MPH or something slower? (IE: Walk = 3MPH, Jog = 7MPH, Run = 12MPH)

-------------
Having 36V in and 18V out neither proves that the controller is bad, nor proves that it is good. However, it is a good sign that it may be working.
The voltage out from the controller depends on several factors, including, but not limited to, throttle position and mechanical load on motor.

Since a PDS controller limits motor RPM depending on which of the four PDS Performance modes it is in and without any jumper wire on the plug in J2, your cart is in the All Terrain (aka Golf) mode, 36V in and 18V out is not an anomaly.

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Unless the high current cables are getting very warm or hot, they are probably okay. (Symptoms would be different if they were bad)
The problem is most likely in the low current control wires or the controller and you've already replaced the controller.

You've checked and cleaned all the control wires at the controller, but have you checked/cleaned/tightened the other end of those wires?

The 18 connections highlighted with red lines on the attached PDS schematic are all places that might cause the problems you are experiencing.

[Ploki]

having trouble getting molex fitting for j2 is there a part type or code number