1999 ezgo 36 volt series wont run

[gsteele0214]

Im usually pretty good with these things but Im stumped. The cart came in with bad batteries I changed the batteries and it dont run.(did not run before) I got to looking around and seen the solenoid was fried and burnt up on the battery side post so i changed it. Still the cart wont run the solenoid clicks and sending power to the controller I jumped the controller and nothing not even a arc. Took the motor off looked at it jumped it and would not spin so I changed the motor put a brand new one on still nothing. I changed the FnR switch nothing tried a different its and nothing going through it with my volt meter everything has correct voltage. Any ideas will greatly be appreciated like I said im stumped ohm out the pedal box harness and everything please help

[Taykol]

How did u jump the controller?

[JohnnieB]

Okay. let's start from scratch.
The solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the high current loop, or throttle.
What is the battery pack voltage? (38.2V for a 36V cart)

Connected DVM between B- and M- terminals on controller
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be FULL battery pack voltage.

If not, there is an open or high resistance connection in high current loop.
(Here's a schematic with high current loop traced)

If so, slowly press throttle pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero.

If not, there is an ITS issue. If it is an aftermarket controller, or anything except a Curtis Model 1206, it may have the wrong throttle type.

Let us know what you find so far and we'll proceed from there

[gsteele0214]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Okay. let's start from scratch.
The solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the high current loop, or throttle.
What is the battery pack voltage? (38.2V for a 36V cart)

Connected DVM between B- and M- terminals on controller
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be FULL battery pack voltage.

If not, there is an open or high resistance connection in high current loop.
(Here's a schematic with high current loop traced)

If so, slowly press throttle pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero.

If not, there is an ITS issue. If it is an aftermarket controller, or anything except a Curtis Model 1206, it may have the wrong throttle type.

Let us know what you find so far and we'll proceed from there

Ok I just done the volt meter test from b- to m- and when the solenoid clicks it stays at 0 my voltage is 37.5 it has a 1206 controller in it.

[Taykol]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If not, there is an open or high resistance connection in high current loop.
(Here's a schematic with high current loop traced)

Use johnnieb's attached drawing and trace the voltage from the battery through the high current loop and see where the problem lies.

[jcfarms]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Okay. let's start from scratch.
The solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, so the problem is in the high current loop, or throttle.
What is the battery pack voltage? (38.2V for a 36V cart)

Connected DVM between B- and M- terminals on controller
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be FULL battery pack voltage.

If not, there is an open or high resistance connection in high current loop.
(Here's a schematic with high current loop traced)

If so, slowly press throttle pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero.

If not, there is an ITS issue. If it is an aftermarket controller, or anything except a Curtis Model 1206, it may have the wrong throttle type.

Let us know what you find so far and we'll proceed from there

Im having similar problem. I do not know which curtis controller I have although it is the three post.
half the tag is missing but I can read 23864G09 curtis pmc
I read voltage at B- and M- posts and it reads 37.0 with key on and off. It doesn't change when I push pedal but the solenoid does click

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jcfarms

Im having similar problem. I do not know which curtis controller I have although it is the three post.
half the tag is missing but I can read 23864G09 curtis pmc
I read voltage at B- and M- posts and it reads 37.0 with key on and off. It doesn't change when I push pedal but the solenoid does click

Sounds like a stock controller, but what year is your cart and what type drive system does it have?

Enter you cart's serial number here and it'll tell you what your cart was when it left the factory.
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

There is a "Precharge" resistor across the solenoids main terminals, so you will read close to battery pack voltage all the time.
That's why I emphasized FULL battery pack voltage.

If your battery pack voltage is 37.0V, get those batteries charged.
The plates are sulfating as we speak!!!!!!!.

If the voltage does not change (Get higher) you may have a solenoid with bad contacts.

[jcfarms]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Sounds like a stock controller, but what year is your cart and what type drive system does it have?

Enter you cart's serial number here and it'll tell you what your cart was when it left the factory.


There is a "Precharge" resistor across the solenoids main terminals, so you will read close to battery pack voltage all the time.

its a txt standard 2006 model
got it charging as we speak boss:)

I believe its just a series motor.
no extra wires on motor but the heavy battery wires.

[JohnnieB]

Glad to hear they are on charge.

I do get bossy at times.


If you are getting FULL battery pack voltage between B- and M- when the solenoid first clicks and it stays at full voltage when the pedal is pushed to floor, either the controller or ITS is bad.

[jcfarms]

ok what is the ITS?