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Old 11-24-2012, 05:46 PM   #11
scottyb
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

The 202B pkg is $575 and motors vary from $400-$650 depending upon which on you choose.

A 2 wire ignition switch is a wire interrupter type switch. There is only one polarity. Whatever power comes into the switch is simply interrupted or connected and allowed to pass on by. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:05 PM   #12
auster
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

It does. As far as the motor. It will mainly be for off road use. Not sure what you have to offer but I trust that you can match it up. Im open to any suggestions. Hate to bug you about this but trying to get this thing rolling. Thanks again.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #13
Dela
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

When you say cart was modified from 36 to 48' did you simply change from 6's to 8's? Many other components need to accompany this change, which is what I would assume is your problem.

Do you still have your 6's?
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:29 PM   #14
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

It was modified by previous owners in 1998. Cart was running up until 2 years ago. The controller was upgraded but I think that was the only thing. Eventually I would like to upgrade everything but just trying to get it running at this point.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:40 AM   #15
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

Since they are new, your batteries should be good.
Hopefully, you've given them an initial charge and will be breaking them in properly after the cart is running.
Here is how to break them in: Battery_Break-in_Methods

Now to get the cart running.

Next step is to get the solenoid to click.
Here is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

To activate, the solenoid has the have B+ (Positive battery pack voltage) applied to one of the small terminals and B- (Negative battery pack voltage) applied to the other small terminal.
B+ is shown in Red and B- is shown in Blue on the schematic.

Attach your DVM's (Digital Volt Meter) negative test lead to the main negative terminal on the battery pack (B-).
Using your DVM's positive test lead, check for B+ at both terminals on back of Keyswitch when Key is ON.
(B+ will be about 38.2V if battery pack is fully charged.)

If you have B+ on both terminals, follow the wire that goes to a microswitch on the F/R assembly.
With F/R in either F or R, you should have B+ on both of that microswitches terminals.

Follow the wire that leads to the microswitch on the throttle assembly.
With throttle pressed, B+ should be on both terminals.

Follow the wire that leads to one of the small terminals on solenoid.
With Key ON, F/R in either F or R and throttle pressed, there should be B+ on that terminal.

If you have B+ at the small terminal of the solenoid and the solenoid is not activating (clicking), either the solenoid coil is bad, the diode is shorted or the wire from the other small terminal to the B- terminal on the controller is bad.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:40 AM   #16
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

Thanks Johnny. I decided to call a friend that has experience with electric carts. Hopefully Ill learn a lot from him.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:24 PM   #17
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

Micro switch for ignition must be bad. Nothing on the NC side. Just to check the sol can I jump the switch from common to NC? Cart is on blocks. Also when the key is off, battery side shows 51.4 and switch side shows 32.7. Is that right? My system is 48 v.
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:05 PM   #18
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

51.4V is about right for a new, fully charged 48V battery pack.

Since the solenoid is a 36V unit, there might be a voltage reducer in there someplace, so I'd be very careful jumping the switch.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:53 PM   #19
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

Well Johnny, got it running in forward but not reverse
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:40 PM   #20
scottyb
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Default Re: Solenoid or Controller?

Should we assume the solenoid clicks in F&R ?
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