2002 EZ GO 36V Series, Wont go

[gallcorn]

Hi I'm new to forum, and have gained alot of valuable info reading here and learned enough to get a 2002 Gem Car going just by reading here, but my new problem with my EZ GO just started and cant figure it out.

My batteries were getting bad, so I replaced them. Charged them up to full capacity, 38.4 volts at idle. I press the accelerator, solenoid clicks, no movement. I test the pack from idle to solenoid click, and pack drops to 28.4 volts. When I test each battery by itself, no voltage drop on any of the 6 batteries. Cart was running fine before I changed batteries. I've went through the EZ GO Diagonstics and everything seems to check out fine.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[Dela]

FNR to Motor?

[JohnnieB]

If you have 38.4V between the main positive terminal and main negative terminal on the battery pack and the voltage measured between the same terminals drops to 28.4V when the solenoid clicks, you have either got bad cables and/or connections within the battery pack, or something is drawing several hundred Amps outside the battery pack.

I'd check the five interconnecting cables within the battery pack first, because if several hundred amps are being drawn from the pack and the motor wasn't moving, you would most likely be seeing smoke and fire.

How about a picture of the battery pack?

[gallcorn]

Hi JohnnieB,
Here is a pic of battery pack you requested.. Thanks for the help!



Dela,
I tested the pack from main + on pack to main - on pack...not sure if that was your question??

[gallcorn]

JohnnieB,
I checked the cables, they all seem ok, clean and tight.

[gallcorn]

JohnnieB is RIGHT again!!!! I took off all the cables and cleaned them really well, and BAM, cart runs fine! Thanks JohnnieB!!!!! Clean looking cables arent always clean!!!!

[JohnnieB]

Do yourself, your cart and your new batteries a favor and replace all 13 high current cables.
Use 4Ga minimum, closed end lugs and an air tight seal between lug and insulation.

Excluding the wiring in the wiring harnesses seen in the picture, the only wire or cables that do not need to be fixed or replaced are the two that tap the pack for 12V accessories. Even the wires to the charger receptacle need to be repaired.

If you wish to verify my observation, just measure the voltage from the lead post on one battery to the lead post on the next battery across the interconnecting cable after the solenoid clicks. If there is any voltage at all, the cable and or connections are bad.


There is probably some additional problems causing the motor not to move or try to move, but I about 99.9% sure those cables are causing the voltage drop at the battery pack.

--------------
Added
Glad that it is running.
What I said still applies. With good batteries, those cables will soon look like this.

[gallcorn]

Thanks again! Just ordered new 4 gauge stock cables from ScottyB

[simple man]

Originally Posted by gallcorn

Thanks again! Just ordered new 4 gauge stock cables from ScottyB

That will help you immensely! In your photo, the cable that is attached where your charger negative lead is attached, looks quite suspect! May have overheated before. One thing I have found to help is to make sure your high current cables are directly connected to the battery. In other words, battery cables on the batteries first and then your charging cables and taps on top of them. This way all the high current goes directly from the battery post to the high current cable first.