Testing ez-go electric motor anyone?

[MRTURBO]

Finally got the 1992 marathon motor off.
It is a G.E. motor.
I notice there are 3 terminals close together and one further away.
Does anyone know the resistances of terminals?????

[JohnnieB]

You didn't mention if it was a Resistor or Controller cart, but I think both drive systems used the same motor.

See attached for Stud layout.
Be sure to hold bottom nut with a second wrench so the studs don't turn inside the motor. Bad thing happen if they do!

Mark and remove the cables from the studs.

With an Ohmmeter, measure between S1 & S2 and between A1 & A2.
I'm not sure what the Ohms value should be, but there is less than 100' of fairly heavy gauge wire (10Ga ?) in the stator windings, so it won't be much.
The Armature has carbon brushes in the current path, so it might be a bit higher.

The important part is that there is fairly low Ohms between S1 & S2 and between A1 & A2.

There should be no conductivity between the A1/A2 studs and the S1/S2 studs, nor between either of them and the motor case.

Since carbon dust from the brushes build up on everything inside the motor over time, you will most likely read a high Ohmic value between the Stator and Armature winding and/or between them and the case.

If the reading is less than a Meg-ohm (1,000,000 Ohms) the motor's innards probably need to be cleaned and while it is apart, the brushes and bearings replaced.

[MRTURBO]

Thanks for all your help....
Got it...It was the speed control module.
Anyone schematics for these controllers....Seems all solid state.
If all solid state i can fix them...Long as they don't fill them with epoxy.
Again thanks for all your help.

[JohnnieB]

If it is a stock Marathon controller, it is most likely a Curtis 1204.

Here is a block diagram, but that is as close to a speed controller schematic as I've been able to find on-line for any golf cart controller.
You can download the 1204/5 manual from the Curtis web-site, and there is a lot of good info in it, but the innards are kept under wraps.

The red square on the block diagram is the control element, consisting of about a dozen or so MOSFETs in parallel that turn on and off about about 15kHz.
Power to the motor is Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) DC and varying the duty cycle varies the amount of current the motor is allowed to draw.

If you decide not to beat your head on the wall and replace it rather than going in blind to fix it, FSIP (One of the Site Sponsors) sells re-manufactured and Repair/Exchange 1204 controllers for a fairly reasonable price. http://www.fsip.biz/NewGolfCurtis.html

Or you could go with an aftermarket upgrade like those shown here (Another Site Sponsor): http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Hope this helps.