2007 Ezgo TXT PDS no power HELP!

[Billyokc7]

GODS OF THE CART PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!!! I have a 2007 that I have had for about 7 months. I wanted to install a batt meter so I can see what the charge was. While doing this the Neg wire I ran from the Main batt came off and made contact with the solid white wire on the key switch. The cart will not move at all. I have done some reading on this site and others and they wanted readings from the controller and the solenoid. Her is what they say
Batt. 37.2
solenoid Post 1 (by the Batt) 37.2 Post 2 (by the outside wall) 36.2
Controller. This is how I was told to check. Positive probe went to B+ Neg prob went to M. The reading was 34.2
I installed a NEW micro-switch by the foot pedal today. I hear the "clicking" from that switch but nothing from the solenoid. Ialso checked the "Reed switch" and it was hot all the way. As you see I have done work to try to find the issue but I am lost now!! The location where I got the cart is wanting to charge me 150.00 to bring it in and they say its the controller but I have a reading there!! CAN SOMEONE HELP A ROOKIE OUT!!!
Any input would be great!! Thank you for your time on this matter!!

[Billyokc7]

Sorry its a TXT PDS not sure if that matters and also a 36V
Thanks!!

[muscle_cars_only]

I'm by far NO expert ,however - When this happened, did you have the run/towmaint. switch in tow maint. mode? From my understanding, the tow/maint selection needs to be used whenever any work is done on the cart. this is to keep the controller from getting fried...

As I stated, I'm no expert but this will be the first question asked by the experts in helping you troubleshooting your issue.

[Billyokc7]

No it was in the Run mode I was not informed on how to do anything like that. I hope thats not the issue! I found a site that said you could test the conrtoller and I did and got a 34.2V I hope I got lucky....

[JohnnieB]

The PDS controller is a Fly-by-Wire system and to get it to energized the solenoid, all the red highlighted wires on the attached schematic have to have battery pack voltage on them. If they do and the solenoid isn't being energized, the controller is most likely blown.
The wires to/from solenoid, the solenoid coil or the diode across the solenoid coil (if one exists) could be bad, but shorting B+ to B- at the keyswitch isn't likely to take any of them out.

The 37.4 at the battery side main terminal on the solenoid indicates the battery pack is only about 75% charged, so it might be a good idea to fully charge the batteries before they start to sulfate.

If the controller is toast, this might be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket controller and get more speed and torque.

[subby44]

I would try the simple stuff first.. Did you try a new key switch? i would say there is a good chance you cooked it... they are cheap and it sounds like it could be fried!!! good luck!! did the wires just touch for a sec? or did they lay against each other for a few sec?

[Billyokc7]

It melted on the key switch. I swapped the controller and the solenoid and still nothing out of the white and white/yellow wires.

[scottyb]

Do you see the wht/yllw wires on the keyswitch in the diagram above? Check them for continuity all the way back to the controller plug(on the cart).