Delay in Acceleration

[Sergio]

What else do you have connected to the key switch? If you have a voltage reducer, disconnect it and see if the interference goes away.

[Sergio]

Just had a wild theory, can you check the 2 large posts on the solenoid and verify that the red wire that feeds the Tow/run switch is connected to the battery side of the solenoid and not the controller side.

[scott.cornish]

Hey Sergio. THANKS for the suggestions, and SORRY for the delay in responding ! I finally figured out the " interference " I was seeing on my multimeter. I had it set to AC voltage, instead of DC !! I told you I was not experianced ! Feel pretty stupid now ! Anyway, I can now proceed with the testing. I have also downloaded a service manual since my last post, and I have run a few of the diagnaostics tests listed there. Here is what I am seeing...1st I will go through some of the diagnstics from the manual.
* Confirmed voltage correct at batteries - reading 50 volts
* Confirmed 48v on " blue " wire coming from OBC to controller
* Confirmed key switch functioning correctly
* Confirmed 48v ( 50V actually ) on blue wire at MCOR
* When testing the " Green/White " wire coming out of the MCOR, with pedal depressed, manual says that I should see 48v. I do not. This makes me feel like the MCOR might be at fault, but...when I jumper accross the " blue " and " green/white " wire from the MCOR, as you suggested earlier, the solenoid does not click. I think you stated that it should...would this be an issue with the controller ? Another test here ?
* I then retested the wires, at the solenoid, per your directions. With multimeter black wire on ground pack, and positive " blue " wire pulled from solenoid, I put red probe on the blue wire connector. It shows 50v before I depress the pedal. No change when I press it. I also tested the other small wire, with the same method, and it shows 20v. It does not change when I press the pedal either. Does this sound right ?
* Last thing, red wire to the tow/run switch, is on the battery side of the solenoid, per your last post.

SORRY !!! Know that's a LOT of info !! Hope it helps the troubleshooting effort though !! Let me know your thoughts, or any other testing suggestions. THANKS !!

[Sergio]

Oh well, the 0-26v fluctuation would have been a cool problem to track down....
Now that you have the service manual, you should know about as much as I do about your cart.

You will need an insulation piercing probe or at least a hat pin to follow the test procedures outlined in the manual.

Make sure you test the solenoid coil first:
1) Disconnect the Blue and Blue/White wires from the Solenoid.
2) Set Multimeter to Ohms (2k or so)
3) Place Red probe on Solenoid Positive Terminal and Black probe on Negative terminal.
You should get 180-200ohms

Here is my quick summary of what needs to happen for the cart to run:

Make sure:
1) Cart is on jack stands with the rear wheel(s) off the ground.
2) Tow/run switch is on RUN
3) FNR switch is on Forward.
4) Key switch is ON.

For most of the tests you will want the Black Multimeter probe connected to either the Pack Negative or the Controller B-, whichever is more convenient as they provide the same voltage reference.

The following needs to be working before the solenoid will engage when you press the pedal.

1) The Light Blue wire on the solenoid should have 48v (Key Switch is ON).
2) The Blue wire (pin 16 on controller) should have 48v (FNR on FWD).
3) The Light Blue wire (pin 5 on Controller) should have 48v (OBC lockout OFF).
4) The Gray Wire (pin 9 on the controller) should have 48v (Tow/Run on RUN).
5) The Tan Wire (pin 10 on the controller) should have 48v (Key Switch ON).

When You press the Pedal:

1) The Green wire (pin 6 on the controller) should have 48v (Micro switch On MCOR is ON).
2) The Blue/White wire (pin 12 on the controller) should provide a path to negative for the Solenoid (Solenoid Activation).

To test #2 above, Place the Red multimeter probe on the Pack Positive, and the Black Multimeter probe on the Blue/White solenoid wire. The meter should read 48v when the pedal is pressed.

Good Luck.

[scott.cornish]

THANKS a ton for all that !!! I will get on those checks tonight. Let me interject that downloading a manual in no way makes me as knowladgeable as you !! I did confirm the solenoid as you described. I got 180ohms. I was hoping it wasn't the solenoid, since that was the first thing I replaced when all of this started. Would have hated to get a bad one. With the MCOR test I did, since I do not get 48v at the green/white wire when I depress the pedal, does that lead you to think it is the MCOR ? Any way to confirm that ? Also, any ideas why the solenoid would not click when I jumpered the blue wire to the green/white as you described earlier ? is there anything potentially going on down the electrical pipeline that would cause either of these ? THANKS again !

[Sergio]

Actually All of those things I listed need to be working before the solenoid will activate. The MCOR may very well be bad, but jumping it should have worked if that was the only problem (or the problem).

I think I forgot another thing that needs to be working before You push the Pedal:

6) The Yellow wire at MCOR should have between 03v-06v (Center wiper on MCOR)

A lot of things need to work right before a controller cart will run, that is why some folks like the simplicity of the resistors carts....

Follow the steps procedures in the manual one by one and you should isolate the problem.