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Old 05-23-2020, 06:14 AM   #11
Biaviian
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

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Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
Chill out. Without knowing which Bluetooth speaker he has you have no idea how much current it’s drawing. The myth is that all Bluetooth speakers are small and underpowered. Another myth is that the OP won’t find he wants some other 12v accessory sometime soon.
They sent me a wonderfully worded private message telling me that I am propagating myths and untruths, justifying the snarkiness.. I guess asking a question is the same as making a statement about a myth. I think this person is a little too self-absorbed. You can tell that by the post about being an aerospace engineer.


"The snarkiness is warranted when people propagate myths and untruths. I'm an Engineer. It about numbers. Certain things warrant an opinion such as 36V vs 48V. Everyone has different preferences, which is fine. Telling someone they shouldn't drive their cart because one tire is 0.5 psi down is unwarranted. Its the same as telling someone they shouldn't run their bluetooth speaker because it will damage their GIANT battery pack.

You asked for help. The only response you got was not good information. I was trying to get you the truth. I'll leave you and your forum alone.

Scott"

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:59 AM   #12
orangeman6
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

Well, that’s where he is wrong for sure, the shi**y attitude is never warranted. As probably most of us are, I’m on a few other forums for different things, and this one is by far the best, as far as the combination of knowledge and members’ desire to help. Some people enjoy being on a forum just to show others how smart they are. It’s not like that here, which is one of the things that makes it so enjoyable to be a part of.
The bad part is he might not actually be wrong. I’m certainly not an engineer, and definitely not an expert when it comes to carts. I was kind of alluding to his point in my initial response with the comment about needing to know the draw of whatever it is you’re going to have running. I figured one of our experts here would chime in with some attitude free, legitimate help. They always do. Anyway, good riddance to that guy if that’s how he likes to help. He can find somewhere else to try and build his ego.
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:03 AM   #13
mgas
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

It was NEVER directed at you Biaviian. You asked a fair question. You didn't do anything wrong or propagate anything. You were just looking for information. I was trying to stop wrong information before it got propagated further.

Not self absorbed. Just experienced. But you can call me anything you like. People just don't like to be wrong. Just run the numbers. orangeman6 could be right. You could have a Mega Watt speaker, a Beer cooler, and a Disco ball all running at the same time. Still, run the math. Maybe you will need to switch batteries every 6 months instead :)

But you did say you wanted an "always on" USB port. Since USB 2.0 is usually rated for 500 mA and USB 3.0 is 1A, all my statements and math still work out to NOT damaging your batteries which is what I was trying to convey.
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Old 05-29-2020, 05:21 AM   #14
PatinDacula
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

Thanks MGAS -

I think your answer (however perceived) was the first one to break from the pavlovian lock step standard reply to the question asked.
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:24 AM   #15
Sergio
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

The safe generic answer is to always use a voltage converter.

If one knew enough about their entire system they would not be asking the question and it is safe to assume they would not know the implication of tapping a single battery.

Things to consider when trying to save money by not purchasing a converter:

Unless You have a bank charger and charge each battery individually (I don't know of any cart with a OEM bank charger) You charger does not charge individual batteries, just the pack.

Draining a battery 50Ah vs 60Ah during a discharge cycle is negligible for the life of that battery as You can easily see on the soc vs life graphs.

When charging the pack in series however, the batteries that started at a higher SOC will reach a much higher voltage first while the pack voltage is lagging due to the more discharged battery.

Perhaps the other batteries will not gas too much or be damaged based on the expected additional discharge of the single battery, but if you accidentally forget something draining that single battery, it could have more of an impact in the charging system and health of the other batteries.

Also, since all batteries are discharged in Series, the SOC of the pack is equal to the lowest battery SOC in the Series.

Moving the wires around is not a good generic answer unless the wiring is completely isolated from anything else.

Club Cars in particular have a brake relay activated by the Key Switch and it uses the "accessory" negative for return. If You move the negative for the existing accessory harness to the second battery, You will be injecting +12v into the system (when OFF) through the relay fly-back diode since the the anode is on the negative side.

I don't think there was any attempt to mislead or push the sale of converters (most of us are cart owners and not dealers), but there are a lot of things to consider and if You have the technical knowledge, know your charging system, understand your particular cart wiring and have a single specific objective, You can certainly tap a single battery.

However, when You know that you don't know all variables, using a converter is a safe approach.

I have my own pet peeves with some answers here as well, like the notion that the wire diameter by itself limits the amount of current it can flow, but in the end I overlook the technical inaccuracy since most folks asking have old cables and over-sized cables (to a certain degree) although do not provide any practical benefit, they don't cause any harm either and are much better than old corroded cables.

Ok, I am off my soapbox and back to work now.
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:36 AM   #16
UFGatorcart2013
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

I have a 12v Deep cycle AGM battery for my accessories and i have a 2 port usb receptacle that has a little blue light on it that would stay on all the time and drain the battery to where i was having to charge it every couple days. I decided to put a on/off switch to it and has solved the issue. I now charge that battery once every 2 weeks and it is still not dead. The battery has light kit, under lights, interior lights, radio, front light bar, sub w/ amp, and USB ports.
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:51 AM   #17
teecro
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

We dealt with a 12 volt tap of just a couple VHF radios on a 24 volt system built with dual 8D 250 amp hour batteries for least a decade on a ship that I'm Chief Engineer on, you could not keep up with the one battery being constantly boiled by the charger. Batteries in that location were lucky to last 2 years. Removed the tap from the system and we are having zero issue, we expect 5 year plus intervals on the system now... Do as you see fit but any regular use of a tap is eventually gonna cause problems...
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:17 PM   #18
Roy Gurley
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

Same here on my 2014 club car . My charger keeps turning on about every 3 days because of the Always On USB ports.
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:21 PM   #19
Biaviian
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

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Originally Posted by Roy Gurley View Post
Same here on my 2014 club car . My charger keeps turning on about every 3 days because of the Always On USB ports.
I got a 30 amp switch that I am putting between the solenoid and the reducer. Then I am going to a fuse bank. I am installing the switch under the driver's seat. I have an always-on voltmeter/USB ports with a light so that will remind me to turn off the switch.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:11 PM   #20
Denntt
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Default Re: I want an "always on" USB port(s)

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Originally Posted by mgas View Post
I'm sorry. That was really directed at the comment about reducing the life of the battery pack as a whole. I get people want to sell reducers, relays, etc. I also get people want to justify why they bought reducers, relays, etc. Hook your USB up to a convenient battery and enjoy your toy. If it worries you, move the wire once a year. The math should have more value than opinions and urban myths.
I do not sell relays/VDC reducers/fuse blocks, nor am I substantiating anything that I may have built. I was trying to inform the OP is that there are products that solve the technical challenge without causing unintended consequences the OP may be unaware of. As an engineer, I too value the math but I am unaware of the specifics of application. Relays are made for a reason. Fuse panels are made for a reason. VDC reducers are made for a reason. I did not take this to be a technical reduction but a request for guidance. The same result can be achieved by either application, one is straightforward, another more complex, but both achieve the goal for the OP.
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