EZGO with Curtis 1204 Controller issues

[Golf cart guy]

I agree it is an advanced test and not for a newbie, but works very well and cuts to the chase as far as diagnosing the problem goes. 2 minute check and you have the majority of the system checked. Taking all safety precautions should be a normal thing to do. But I do appreciate pointing that out to the inexperienced.

[Crownsd11]

I did this test and the motor runs , so I guess it's looking like a controller problem . Are there any other tests you think I should run? I noticed some diodes on the controller and solenoid ? Thanks again for the help guys appreciate the insight

[Crownsd11]

[QUOTE=rabbitreborn;1316685]you are supposed to be testing the voltage between B- and M-. One test lead attached to each of those post to read the voltage between them.

I personally do my test a little different. I place the Positive lead on the B+ and I place the ground lead on the M-. After pressing the pedal to the floor I want to see full pack voltage on the meter.

[/QUOTE So I did the test exactly this way and as soon as I gave it gas and the solenoid clicked the Voltage dropped to 0 ]

If you decide to do this test I recommend 3 things.

#1, don't just hold the wire on there with your hand. use a pair of vice grips or something to secure the wire. (you can even bolt it in place if you want).

#2, before attaching the wire make sure the key is off and the cart is in neutral while attaching it. After it is attached , then switch the key on and put the cart in gear.

#3, most importantly, make sure the cart is well secured on jack stands before hitting the gas pedal. sending 36 volts to the motor all at once can have a VIOLENT reaction. I would hate to see you injured because the cart jumped off the jack.

[/QUOTE When I ran this test the motor ran , are there other things I should check before buying a new controller ? Let me know thanks]

[Golf cart guy]

That's it, that's all you have to do, testing is over

[rabbitreborn]

Originally Posted by Crownsd11

I did this test and the motor runs , so I guess it's looking like a controller problem . Are there any other tests you think I should run? I noticed some diodes on the controller and solenoid ? Thanks again for the help guys appreciate the insight

You did the test and it verified all the high current cabling is in order and the motor is working.... That's step 1

Step 2, Scotty did a great write up in the sticky's for here.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.
Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.
Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.
RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.
Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.
REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.

[Crownsd11]

Ok haven't gotten around to getting a new controller as of yet but I did get my hands on a good used one, problem is its not the same exact model, all the connections are the same but models differ

Maybe a dumb question but can a Curtis model 1205-304 take the place of a 1204-027 ?

Let me know
thanks

[rabbitreborn]

the 1205 has a 5k-0 throttle while the 1204 has a 0-5k throttle, so no, they can't be easily interchanged.

[scottyb]

Get your hands on a new SR control from Alltrax
SR48300 is a stock replacement control with a lot more features than Curtis ever thought of offering for just $399 with a new 200a HD solenoid

SR features:
reverse polarity protection
throttle signal auto calculation
waterproof construction
shift on the fly speed control
free user friendly program software
200a solenoid has magnetic breakouts for extended life.


SR48400 and SR48500 available

[Kramlinck1]

I know it's not the correct method but I tried the quick controller test by jacking up the rear end and touching m- and b-. The motor creeped for a half of a second and that was it? Bad controller?

[Shooter111]

I’m having the same issue I get full power on m and b- with peddle up I get about 48 with peddle down I get 50 plus. Tried b+ to m and same thing.