Frame restoration with rust

[TRPetr]

I have started to restore my 1st cart, an 04 EZGO TXT. As I work through this process, I am finding a significant amount of rust on the frame. I don't know if the cart was rode hard, but it looks like it was put up wet.

My plan at this time is to use a rust converter, followed by primer and paint. My question is to the extent of preparation of the frame before painting. Surface prep is key to a good paint job, and I know to remove any flaking material, either powder coat or rust. I am finding frame parts without the powder coat that are rusted, parts where the powder coat will flake off and rust is evident, and part where the powder coat seems to have good adherence. How much of the powder coat should be removed? This is not a fun job, as I am using only hand tools right now. I am debating if I should just strip this down completely to just the frame, and send it out for blasting and new powder coat, although a new frame might be cheaper. I have not priced out blasting and powder coating yet.

Couple of pics to show what I'm dealing with

[orangeman6]

I didn’t have quite as much rust as you do, but I was able to get the majority of it off with a grinder and a flap disk. I then used por 15, as recommended by a couple of people on this site. It stops the remaining rust. I’ve never heard anyone have anything but positive results with it. I did my frame a few years ago, and there are no signs of the rust that was underneath. It came in black, so I didn’t bother painting over it.
I know guys sandblast and powder coat too, but I think you’re looking at a few hundred with that, IIRC.

[Briboy]

Wire brushes, Flap disks and some Elbow Grease. Take the powder coat down only until you get to the good adherence. Like Orangeman6 said POR15 is awesome, I use it a bunch it is made right here in Morristown NJ. You only need to paint over it if it is gonna see sunlight.
From the pics it looks like its mostly surface rust. Only need to repair/replace if the rust damage is BAD like holes thru the metal.

[jamoore]

I second what others have said. Rust doesn't look too bad. Grinder, flap disk, wire cup on a grinder etc. Just get it down as much as you can. Then your choice of rust converter and it will be fine. I used a spray on truck bed coating on mine after the rust converter. just a simple rattle can truck bed liner. Looked great and holding up well.

[TRPetr]

So, y'all have convinced me regarding POR15. Its on order, should be here Weds.

I have some rust removal in my future

And then new rear springs, debating on new shocks ( think they're original), new splash plates, as the existing ones were shot, and whatever else is needed before everything goes back on. And a decision about sending the motor to Plum Quick.

Hey, at least I'm having some fun at this.

[gruelens]

I also vote for using POR 15 https://www.por15.com/. It is excellent for what the OP is trying to do with that frame. Note: POR 15 does not wash off your skin, it takes days for it to wear off. Also, once you open a can use it, it does not store once it has been opened. All the best.

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Briboy

Wire brushes, Flap disks and some Elbow Grease. Take the powder coat down only until you get to the good adherence. Like Orangeman6 said POR15 is awesome, I use it a bunch it is made right here in Morristown NJ. You only need to paint over it if it is gonna see sunlight.
From the pics it looks like its mostly surface rust. Only need to repair/replace if the rust damage is BAD like holes thru the metal.

All good advice here, but this is exactly how I feel about this.

[TRPetr]

Next question/comment

As I have been scraping and scrubbing off the rust, I find that its really messy doing it from underneath the cart. I keep removing parts to get better access to the frame.

Since I have already purchased new rear leaf springs to put on in support of a new rear seat, and I think the shocks are original, I am considering removing both the front and rear tires, axles and suspensions, and get this down to frame only. Then I can check all those components, and get the frame painted on both sides without crawling underneath.

Anybody have similar experience and if so, how did it go?