1994 has low motor voltage

[gruelens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

There ought to be some voltage on those pins, or the cart wouldn't move at all. Sure your getting the test probe far enough into the backside of the molex connector?

Try Pin-4 (red wire) it is in parallel with solenoid coil and should pave pack voltage on it whenever the solenoid is energized.

I am embarrassed to say, I had an alligator clip on the male pin sticking out of the top of the controller. I will re-do the 3 tests tomorrow, that you had outlined before (it is now dark).
George

[gruelens]

Here we go ... Paul Harvey page 2!

B- and pin 2 solenoid clicks = 14.3 v
B- and pin 1 solenoid clicks= 0.0 v
B- and pin 1 throttle fully depressed = 1.0 v

Additionally JohnnieB, you mentioned the connector in the gray cable going from the throttle box to the controller area. I jacked up the cart and removed 14 miles of electrical tape. Someone has already attacked that area. I did not explore what you can see in the attached picture. Many thanks!
George

[JohnnieB]

Pin-1 is about 1/2 what it ought to be and motor voltage is about 1/2 what it ought to be. Get that problem fixed and the cart will probably \run the way it is supposed to.

Pin 2 is a bit high, but may come down when Pin-1 issues are fixed.

Crimp type butt-splices wrapped in electrical tape are not water proof, so I suspect that is what is causing the problem since the pedal box looks clean and dry. Try redoing the splices and cover with marine grade (waterproof) shrink tubing. (I prefer solder joints)

[gruelens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Pin-1 is about 1/2 what it ought to be and motor voltage is about 1/2 what it ought to be. Get that problem fixed and the cart will probably \run the way it is supposed to.

Pin 2 is a bit high, but may come down when Pin-1 issues are fixed.

Crimp type butt-splices wrapped in electrical tape are not water proof, so I suspect that is what is causing the problem since the pedal box looks clean and dry. Try redoing the splices and cover with marine grade (waterproof) shrink tubing. (I prefer solder joints)

Sorry for the delay reporting back. I got shot yesterday (covid type ammo).

I cut all the old butt splices out in the gray cable between the throttle box and controller area. New splices and waterproofing reside there now. I also routed the cable up higher, away from road spray.

I again did the 3 voltage tests and I got the exact same results as reported in posting #12. Thank you for your patience JohnnieB.
George

[JohnnieB]

Do the ITS voltage test on the other end of the black and white wires, at the ITS sensor inside the pedal box. If they are still the same, try a different ITS sensor. The $20 ones work just as well as the $100+ ones.

If that doesn't fix it, I'm afraid the controller is the culprit. Replace it with an Alltrax SR48400 or larger, along with a 200A or higher solenoid.

---------
I'll be 78 in Feb and on the list for a COVID-19 shot sometime in the next week or two. Notice any side effects?

[gruelens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I'll be 78 in Feb and on the list for a COVID-19 shot sometime in the next week or two. Notice any side effects?

JohnnieB, I sent you a PM regarding your question above.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gruelens

JohnnieB, I sent you a PM regarding your question above.

Thanks.

[gruelens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Do the ITS voltage test on the other end of the black and white wires, at the ITS sensor inside the pedal box. If they are still the same, try a different ITS sensor. The $20 ones work just as well as the $100+ ones.

If that doesn't fix it, I'm afraid the controller is the culprit. Replace it with an Alltrax SR48400 or larger, along with a 200A or higher solenoid.

Voltage readings on black and white wires in throttle box, are identical to readings at controller pins (reported earlier). Also, ohm test of throttle sensor's 2 terminals shows open circuit regardless of plungers position (not always comfortable with ohms readings, on my Klein meter, being accurate). There is approx. 0.75 volt drop across the microswitch in the throttle box.

JohnnieB, I think I understand you to say, first replace the throttle sensor. Second, replace the controller (sure would like to keep the $ part of this as low as possible for my neighbor). Continued thanks!
George

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gruelens

Voltage readings on black and white wires in throttle box, are identical to readings at controller pins (reported earlier). Also, ohm test of throttle sensor's 2 terminals shows open circuit regardless of plungers position (not always comfortable with ohms readings, on my Klein meter, being accurate). There is approx. 0.75 volt drop across the microswitch in the throttle box.

JohnnieB, I think I understand you to say, first replace the throttle sensor. Second, replace the controller (sure would like to keep the $ part of this as low as possible for my neighbor). Continued thanks!
George

There's a diode bridge between the the terminals the black and white wires connect to, so many DVMs will read and open. (ITS sensor schematic attached)

The voltage on Pin-2 is high, which may indicate a bad controller, but I've seen (on the forum) something like that work okay when the sensor was replaced.

If it does turn out to be the controller, recommend replacing it with an Alltrax SR48400.

[gruelens]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

... The voltage on Pin-2 is high, which may indicate a bad controller, but I've seen (on the forum) something like that work okay when the sensor was replaced.

If it does turn out to be the controller, recommend replacing it with an Alltrax SR48400.

Good News! Thanks to JohnnieB's knowledge and patience, the old Medalist is cruising along just fine once again. Flat pavement, full throttle, she flirts with 12 mph. and pulls strong on grades.

Today I replaced the Inductive Throttle Sensor, after giving 22 bucks to the big river in South America for it. I also adjusted the plunger that goes into the ITS. The metal plunger now becomes flush with the outside of the ITS, when at full throttle.

The desert sun has been hard on the old metal EZGO. Last stop is some primer and burgundy paint before returning it to a very happy neighbor.

Thanks again to JohnnieB and the BGW Forum.
George