2000 EZGO 42V won't run

[Capt. Lenny]

If you look on the floor pan where the f/w switch mounts, there should be a wire coming through the frame inside a wire loom, it has 2 wires in it that go to the key switch. You should be able to find what these are connected to and disconnect to check switch continuity. I rewired my cart but I think they were blue and green.

[wrencher123]

Originally Posted by Capt. Lenny

If you look on the floor pan where the f/w switch mounts, there should be a wire coming through the frame inside a wire loom, it has 2 wires in it that go to the key switch. You should be able to find what these are connected to and disconnect to check switch continuity. I rewired my cart but I think they were blue and green.

Not sure what you're saying. What is the f/w switch? If you are talking about the pedal box with the microswitch and ITS there are 4 wires coming in/out.

[kgsc]

That should have been f/r I believe. Forward/Reverse. The 2 rivets for the key switch should be push rivets. Take a punch and just push the centers through. They will drop in the dash behind the plate in a pocket that you can retrieve once the plate is out. Put the cart in N before you pull the plate.

[Capt. Lenny]

My mistake, meant the F/R switch. I'm guessing that you have the shift lever near your right knee. That is an actuator lever that links to the actual switch. Anyway on the passengers side of the cart.

[wrencher123]

Originally Posted by kgsc

That should have been f/r I believe. Forward/Reverse. The 2 rivets for the key switch should be push rivets. Take a punch and just push the centers through. They will drop in the dash behind the plate in a pocket that you can retrieve once the plate is out. Put the cart in N before you pull the plate.

Thanks. Would the push rivet be metal? Mine look like aluminum pop rivets.

[kgsc]

Original rivets are plastic. If yours are metal they have been removed before and will need to be drilled out. But before you do that you should be able to find the green wire in the harness coming back from the dash by the f/r switch. With the key on and F or R selected it should have pack voltage

[wrencher123]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Original rivets are plastic. If yours are metal they have been removed before and will need to be drilled out. But before you do that you should be able to find the green wire in the harness coming back from the dash by the f/r switch. With the key on and F or R selected it should have pack voltage

My diagram has the green wire from key switch going to micro switch MS3 in the pedal box.
Regardless, the switch is out and a new one should be here tomorrow.
Would a continuity test show good/bad on the key switch?

[kgsc]

Green is from key switch to the pedal but it passes from the key switch through the battery compartment by the f/r and then to the loom to the pedal.

[wrencher123]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Green is from key switch to the pedal but it passes from the key switch through the battery compartment by the f/r and then to the loom to the pedal.

Roger that. My diagram is a simplified solenoid activation circuit.

[wrencher123]

New key switch is in and that made some improvement. I now have power to the battery condition meter and it lights up. Also there is a beep coming from the reverse warning horn.

Still no solenoid activation in either forward or reverse.

What's the next logical step?