1993 G8 front cowl/dash braces

[smallblock450sl]

Just a recomdation, high pressure wash it, use POR-40 (I think that's what its called), it will kill the rust (hot rod guy's swear by it). Unless you have master metal tools and skill, I would save what you can and replace the bad with new metal (like you said). That is not that structual other then holding the front cowel solid. Shure wish I would have cut off those peices before we scraped out a couple of frames earlier this year, they could have come in handy for members like you. Next time I will. Good luck on your build!

[Mike Mac]

As always, follow Smallblock's lead, but I would save the up rights to keep your alignment. The floor you can change, nothing to align there. But only remove one side at a time. Put the new one in, then do the other.

Just reread, If floor is surface only, I'd just clean them up. Spend your time on those up rights!

[stuff4mason]

Yea, I would say a majority of those braces on G8's would probably be bad. Especially if the carts were used in the rain and mud. That section would get eaten away from spray of the tires. It's not bad fabbing new one's though.

[DrewJones25]

Ok thanks again for the advice and help. Deffinately will be pressure washing it and I'll get the product you suggested for killing the rust. This may be off topic but is their anything else I should replace or look for while I've gotten it torn down this far? I figured since the body is off, it would deffinately be easier to work on things. Thanks

[stuff4mason]

First thing I'd check is your engine tentioner. Make sure its there, and its in good shape. If not, order a new one. Check your engine mount bushings. Check your brakes. Check steering for play. Check your muffler for rust holes. Of course look at all the normal engine and clutch stuff...

[DrewJones25]

Well I did read some posts on the G8 club thread about the tensioner issue but I'm still a little unsure as to exactly what is good and bad. My tensioner is in place but the cable has slack but doesn't look like I can tighten anymore since nut is tightened all way down. The belt has slack to the point where you can grab bottom and top and squeeze it together and it'll touch each other. Engine mounts seem to be in good shape but then again I've never seen another one to compare it to. I'm assuming if you grab motor and pickup on it, if they were bad it would move a good bit, which mine doesn't. So that leads me to think they are ok.

[Mike Mac]

Drew, there is suppose to be .80 gap at the nut on the tensioner. That stops the motor from pulling back when under load. The belt new, measures 1 3/16" across, if yours measures under I think, 1 1/16" its worn out and needs replaced. Keep reading, you"ll get it!