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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-17-2016, 04:43 PM   #1
Isaac-1
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Default Buying 2010 48V RXV

I have been shopping for an electric golf cart to go out at the family farm, mostly for my elderly mother to use to get around, take garbage cans down to the end of the driveway (1/4 mile), etc. Today I found a 2010 RXV with newish batteries, flip down rear seat, headlights, etc. I did not have my truck / trailer with me today when I went to look at it so I wanted to ask what should I look at specific to this model before buying, I did take it for a short test drive and no issues jumped out at me. It is at a nearby used golf cart wholesales / customizer that mainly sells fleet trade ins, but this one was a private party trade in on a fully customized gasoline powered cart. Asking price is just under $2,000 which seems fair to me, they have some fleet 2 seat Yamaha's or EZ GO TXT's starting at $1,500 or so.

Thanks for your help
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:09 PM   #2
Yamahaman
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

You probably can't go wrong especially if nothing jumped out at you and it has newish batteries.Those fleet Yamaha's or EZ GO TXT's wouldn't be such a bad idea either but the batteries on those probably will need replacing in a shorter time but I could be wrong.I could probably make money on any of them if I were closer and interested in doing it,which i'm not.
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:24 PM   #3
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

One side question, where is the center of gravity on these carts, I plan to pick up with a 5x8 trailer (55x99 inch deck), overall length is 106 inches with the rear facing seat so I assume I need to pull it on facing forward, trailer axle is at 72 inches from front of deck, so I know it wil be close to under the batteries.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:00 AM   #4
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

the center of balance is heavily biased toward the rear on electric carts, but positive tongue weight on the trailer is necessary for trailer stability. cart loaded backwards might be better for short trailers barely long enough for a cart. trying it both ways may be the best bet to see what your vehicle/trailer combo likes best out on the open road at highway speeds.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:38 PM   #5
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Default Re: Buying (Bought) 2010 48V RXV

First off here is a picture of my new RXV fresh off the trailer from picking it up today. As you may be able to tell it needs a good bath, thankfully the pressure washer is already out, so that will be coming up in just a few minutes. It is not bad, but the seats show a slight sign of mildew and the body has a few scuff marks that should mostly polish out, headlights and windshield are also bit foggy, it will also need new tires soon as they don't have much tread left and are starting to crack.

So now down to my list of questions, I have read over dozens if not hundreds of RXV message threads on here so I will limit my questions to the ones I have not seen clear answers to.

1, I want to add a charge meter which one should I get and is there one that plugs into the existing wiring harness?

2, I have read 20 inch tire/wheel combinations will fit the RXV without a lift kit, is this true, and in particular will 20X11-10 4 Ply Trail wolf's fit? Or can you suggest a web site with a good cheap wheel / tire package set for general on/off road use, nothing too aggressive, but it will be living on a 350 acre farm, so something that will not destroy the yard, but will not get stuck too easy crossing a creek.

3, I notice that when turning it on and off I must pause for a moment at each position on the switch, Off/R/On/F

4, Does anyone recognize these specific headlights, I don't think they are factory as it has tail lights only, no brake light or turn signal.

5, I have read that the RXV's don't coast, well this one seems to, it takes 15-20 seconds to roll to a stop on mostly level ground once foot is removed from the accelerator at near full speed (set to 19.5 mph by the dealer this morning, although I think acceleration is still set to low, which is ok) , is this normal, part of one of the set up options, etc? Brake pedal action seems to work ok, but it does take some pedal travel to get significant braking (if it were a mechanical brake I would worry about being a very soft pedal)

thanks Ike

p.s. any suggestion on where to buy a replacement windshield and are some better than others?
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Last edited by Isaac-1; 05-18-2016 at 03:39 PM.. Reason: bought
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:05 PM   #6
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

I think I read when they set it to Freedom mode (19mph) that regeneration braking is turned off.

I like ebay for parts. Or try a site sponsor, some sell there too.

I would think the trail wolf would fit, but will probably chew up the yard.
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:39 PM   #7
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

One more issue, is this RXV missing the DC-DC converter, I have read they were added in early 2010, so this may be an even earlier 2010 RXV? I see a small negative and positive lead that appears to be attached to the closest battery only and goes into the factory harness.

Assuming the DC-DC converter is missing is it simple to add one?
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Last edited by Isaac-1; 05-18-2016 at 04:40 PM.. Reason: ooops forgot to attach photo
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:06 PM   #8
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

My txt factory 12v system is just some wires off two batteries to make 12v. This is to run the lights and horn on the cart. So maybe it just taps one 12v battery for its 12v.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:26 PM   #9
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

that sure sounds & looks like factory lights to me. listen to cupholder area for click when brake pressed, that would be the brake light relay (its a specific 24v relay, not "any 'ol relay from the parts store"). adding turn signals is "plug & play". i strongly suggest the factory SOC meter & it plug into the preexisting plug with the keyswitch wires. yours was not equipped with a Dc/Dc convertor, its not lost or missing. you should add one.
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:35 PM   #10
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Default Re: Buying 2010 48V RXV

Thanks cgtech, I plan to add the DC converter, will double check for the relay, but I don't recall a click. Pulling off the run/tow switch cover reveals at test date sticker dated end of January 2010, so I am guessing that was close to the build date.

Ike

p.s. headlight switch is an old style pull push switch. Also is there reason go with the EZ Go specific DC-DC converter, I have no plans to add anything except maybe an LED light bar at some point in the future. I assume the appropriate tie in point for the DC converter would be the switched side of the main relay under the run/tow cover.
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