B- and M-

sonnysmith · 07-04-2016, 09:12 AM

johnnieB
Can a controller be intermittent ??
I have not check the B+ and B - unless that is the voltage on the black and white wire from the ITS.

thanks
sonny

scottyb · 07-04-2016, 09:45 AM

The wire connections can be intermittent in the molex connector or the DCX adapter for PDS can have a bad connection or diode. JohnnieB might remember what that diode failure did?

Golf cart guy · 07-04-2016, 09:49 AM

Sounds like an Altrax controller issue. The ezgo ones seem to be common to this issue. Never been a big fan of the altraxs. I am changing one back this week to the stock controller.

sonnysmith · 07-04-2016, 09:57 AM

Thanks guy.
Seems like the hole just keep getting deeper. Hope I can find the bottom.
Just keep tell me what to check and I'll do it. Just wish there was a way to prove something is bad.
Sonny

scottyb · 07-04-2016, 10:07 AM

The Alltrax DCX is an old system. Newer XCT controls are advanced technology.
The DCX controller for PDS should have power at 13 test points when you try to go.

With Run/Tow = Run, Keyswitch = ON, F/R in forward and Pedal depressed until solenoid clicks, measure voltage at: (While Plugs are inserted into Jacks)
J1 Pins 1, 3(2 if F&R in reverse) , 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9 (note 6 - & 7+)
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4
J4 Pins 1 & 2

Every one of the 13 test points listed should have FULL battery pack voltage.

JohnnieB · 07-04-2016, 11:20 AM

The original problem reported was the solenoid clicked, but voltage between B- and M- did not decrease to near zero when pedal was pushed.

Those symptoms narrow the likely suspects down to either a bad controller or a bad throttle input to the controller.

The throttle input varies from 9.87V with pedal up to 6.69V with pedal down. so chance are that the DCX controller is bad.

To prove it, measure the throttle voltage between Pins 1 & 2 in the 10-Pin connector on top of the DCX controller. You may have to lift the 10-Pin plug slightly to access the pins.

In a nutshell, if the solenoid is clicking when pedal is pushed, and the LED is steady green, and the ITS (throttle) voltage drops from about 10V down to about 6V, the voltage between B- and M- should also drop. If it doesn't, the controller is not doing what it is being told to do, therefore it is bad.

JohnnieB · 07-04-2016, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golf cart guy

Sounds like an Altrax controller issue. The ezgo ones seem to be common to this issue. Never been a big fan of the altraxs. I am changing one back this week to the stock controller.

Some cart owners prefer to program their controller to perform to their liking rather than accepting the arbitrary restrictions based on culpability and greed imposed by anonymous lawyers and accountants.

Clemsoncartguy · 07-04-2016, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Some cart owners prefer to program their controller to perform to their liking rather than accepting the arbitrary restrictions based on culpability and greed imposed by anonymous lawyers and accountants.

That and their tired of burning up factory controllers and creeping uphill on larger tires that are 30% bigger than stock.

scottyb · 07-04-2016, 01:09 PM

Some people like factory controls and brakes. And green golf carts

sonnysmith · 07-04-2016, 05:10 PM

Thanks all
I have got it put back together and got two meters hooked to ITS, B- and m-, is there any other place I can hook one to test anything else?
I'm going to drive it tomorrow and see if it will stop.
Thanks Men
Sonny

JohnnieB
If I check pin 1 and 2 on the controller when it's working. Will it get me a clue are does it have to be acting up?
Also can I put a meter on those two terminals and drive the cart and see if anything happens ?
I know I ask lots of question.
Thanks

s

07-04-2016, 09:12 AM	#11
sonnysmith Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Conway,Arkansas 72032 Posts: 775	Re: B- and M- johnnieB Can a controller be intermittent ?? I have not check the B+ and B - unless that is the voltage on the black and white wire from the ITS. thanks sonny

07-04-2016, 09:45 AM	#12
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,406	Re: B- and M- The wire connections can be intermittent in the molex connector or the DCX adapter for PDS can have a bad connection or diode. JohnnieB might remember what that diode failure did?

07-04-2016, 09:49 AM	#13
Golf cart guy Gone Wild Join Date: May 2015 Location: Central Florida Posts: 2,114	Re: B- and M- Sounds like an Altrax controller issue. The ezgo ones seem to be common to this issue. Never been a big fan of the altraxs. I am changing one back this week to the stock controller.

07-04-2016, 09:57 AM	#14
sonnysmith Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Conway,Arkansas 72032 Posts: 775	Re: B- and M- Thanks guy. Seems like the hole just keep getting deeper. Hope I can find the bottom. Just keep tell me what to check and I'll do it. Just wish there was a way to prove something is bad. Sonny

07-04-2016, 10:07 AM	#15
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,406	Re: B- and M- The Alltrax DCX is an old system. Newer XCT controls are advanced technology. The DCX controller for PDS should have power at 13 test points when you try to go. With Run/Tow = Run, Keyswitch = ON, F/R in forward and Pedal depressed until solenoid clicks, measure voltage at: (While Plugs are inserted into Jacks) J1 Pins 1, 3(2 if F&R in reverse) , 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9 (note 6 - & 7+) J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4 J4 Pins 1 & 2 Every one of the 13 test points listed should have FULL battery pack voltage.

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07-04-2016, 11:20 AM	#16
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: B- and M- The original problem reported was the solenoid clicked, but voltage between B- and M- did not decrease to near zero when pedal was pushed. Those symptoms narrow the likely suspects down to either a bad controller or a bad throttle input to the controller. The throttle input varies from 9.87V with pedal up to 6.69V with pedal down. so chance are that the DCX controller is bad. To prove it, measure the throttle voltage between Pins 1 & 2 in the 10-Pin connector on top of the DCX controller. You may have to lift the 10-Pin plug slightly to access the pins. In a nutshell, if the solenoid is clicking when pedal is pushed, and the LED is steady green, and the ITS (throttle) voltage drops from about 10V down to about 6V, the voltage between B- and M- should also drop. If it doesn't, the controller is not doing what it is being told to do, therefore it is bad.

07-04-2016, 01:09 PM	#19
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,406	Re: B- and M- Some people like factory controls and brakes. And green golf carts

07-04-2016, 05:10 PM	#20
sonnysmith Gone Wild Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Conway,Arkansas 72032 Posts: 775	Re: B- and M- Thanks all I have got it put back together and got two meters hooked to ITS, B- and m-, is there any other place I can hook one to test anything else? I'm going to drive it tomorrow and see if it will stop. Thanks Men Sonny JohnnieB If I check pin 1 and 2 on the controller when it's working. Will it get me a clue are does it have to be acting up? Also can I put a meter on those two terminals and drive the cart and see if anything happens ? I know I ask lots of question. Thanks s