Fuse Box from Power Converter?

[MikeF0209]

Hello everyone, after multiple searches in google and the forum I was unable to find the answer I'm looking for in regards to a fuse box and a power reducer. I bought the Madjax power 36-48V to 12v 30 amp Power Converter for a few accessories I want to install on my 2013 EXGO TXT.

Following the instructions of the manufacturer and their youtube video they have the 12v primary accessory cable coming out of the converter directly connected to the accessories with a 3-way or 4-way bullet connector?

My question is, wouldn't it be better to split this primary connections going to a fuse box? Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/OLS-PSZACCEPS...fuse+box&psc=1

This would allow for a safer cleaner split of the accessories connections and the added bonus of a fuse.

Thanks in advance for your responses

[Tommy T]

That is close to what I am running on my club car. That and a buss bar from west marine for the ground.

[tag50]

Imho, if there is the slightest possibility of powering more than 2 accessories, a fuse box is a no-brainer. The main benefit being that it makes troubleshooting so much easier. There's a reason our cars have 2-4 distribution panels in them.


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[MikeF0209]

Originally Posted by tag50

Imho, if there is the slightest possibility of powering more than 2 accessories, a fuse box is a no-brainer. The main benefit being that it makes troubleshooting so much easier. There's a reason our cars have 2-4 distribution panels in them.


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Cool, ok. The best way to determine the fuse size or amperage is by the instructions I suppose?

[tag50]

ScottyB said it best. Match the fuse size to the wire gage of the accessory. The manufacturer is not going to supply 16g when 18g will do the job. The fuses protect the wires not the accessory.


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[mutley]

Yes, connect the fuse box directly to the output of the DC/DC converter. Since you should also be using a common ground rather than the frame, it's best to also buy a ground buss bar or a fuse box that also has a ground buss bar built.

This is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also remember the fuses are their to protect the WIRE not the device / load. (ie, stop the wire from burning). So as said above, fuses should be rated at the wire gauge not the device load. Obviously the wire gauge should be enough to take the load the device needs.
In the event you have a 10A load and put a 10A fuse in, but only wire that can take 5A, the wire will burn and catch something else on fire and no fuse will blow. That's why you always fuse for the wire rating not the device load / rating.

[MikeF0209]

Originally Posted by mutley

Yes, connect the fuse box directly to the output of the DC/DC converter. Since you should also be using a common ground rather than the frame, it's best to also buy a ground buss bar or a fuse box that also has a ground buss bar built.

This is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also remember the fuses are their to protect the WIRE not the device / load. (ie, stop the wire from burning). So as said above, fuses should be rated at the wire gauge not the device load. Obviously the wire gauge should be enough to take the load the device needs.
In the event you have a 10A load and put a 10A fuse in, but only wire that can take 5A, the wire will burn and catch something else on fire and no fuse will blow. That's why you always fuse for the wire rating not the device load / rating.

Nice! Thanks for the reply. Since I'll be using low amp accessories (2amp to 5amp) 10amp fuses should work for them.

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