Replaced batteries and nothing works

[Rslack5]

I have a 2001 PDS. I changed the batteries and went to connect my cables and it sparked and I instantly smelled something burning on the controller. I had the run/tow switch in the tow position when I started, but guess I hit it to the run position. I found the burnt spot on the actual run/tow switch (position 2). I am still getting voltage (37.8v) out of the switch position. I am not getting any other kind of response, no beep, no solenoid noise.

When I first connected the positive cable the cart acted as if I hit the throttle for half of a second, but I didn't. I do have the reed switch bypassed, it was before I changed batteries. This is a stock PDS with the blue speed control. I am not sure if there is any other information that would help.

I have tried to research this problem for 2 days. I can't find anything with the run/tow switch burning so I am trying here before I have to take it in. I do have the White as positive and the black as ground. TIA

[yamahaguy97]

Hmmm while always a good idea, generally speaking you don't have to put the car in tow when you change the batteries. As long as the connections are correct. If not, you could destroy the controller. Strange that the 4 pin tow switch burned up. Did you accidentally short something? Now that you said the car is not responding the controller may be damaged. Did you try the self diagnostic test that the car has? The sudden change from tow to run when you connected the battery may have surged and caused it to melt at the tow switch

[Rslack5]

Originally Posted by yamahaguy97

Hmmm while always a good idea, generally speaking you don't have to put the car in tow when you change the batteries. As long as the connections are correct. If not, you could destroy the controller. Strange that the 4 pin tow switch burned up. Did you accidentally short something? Now that you said the car is not responding the controller may be damaged. Did you try the self diagnostic test that the car has? The sudden change from tow to run when you connected the battery may have surged and caused it to melt at the tow switch

I have gone through all of my connections and everything looks good. I tried to use the run/tow switch like I have read online to get a certain number of beeps, but I am not getting any response. While I was checking the connections on the solenoid i reach around the back side where the resistor is and it was extremely hot. Not sure if that helps. I will try anything I can to make this work.

[Volt_Ampere]

Sounds like your controller is now cooked. You had to have connected something wrong for this to happen.

[JohnnieB]

The Run/Tow switch is between the two pins on J1 (Pins 4 & 5) that supply power to the controller's electronics and the external switches and solenoid. The burnt pin (J3 PIN-2) is the Auxiliary power that feeds the Keyswitch, Pedal switch, F/R switch and Solenoid coil.

From the looks of J3 Pin-2, the Auxiliary power is not getting through to the controller, so it doesn't work.

Unless you can get that burnt connection to pass power into the controller, you will have to buy another controller.

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The spark you get when you connect the battery pack is the filter capacitors in the controller charging via the pre-charge resistor across the solenoid's large terminals. How much of a spark you get depends on how long the battery pack has been disconnected from the controller.

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Always flip Run/Tow switch to Tow before disconnecting/reconnecting any electrical wires anywhere on cart. The controller will probably survive most of the time, but $ometimes they don't.

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With the key ON and the Run/Tow plugged in and in the Run position, check the voltage on J1 Pins 1, 8 & 9. Should be battery pack voltage. If not J3 Pin-2 is letting the power through.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Sounds like your controller is now cooked. You had to have connected something wrong for this to happen.

Maybe - Maybe not

That plug/jack has been passing amps to the solenoid and external switches for ~16 years and might have corroded a bit and corrosion = heat.

[Rslack5]

Thank you all for the response. I am fixing to head to the garage to try these out. I will let you know. Thank you again and please don't tell me its the controller.

[yamahaguy97]

Sorry but typically when that happens and you burn the controller it's not a good sign

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by yamahaguy97

Hmmm while always a good idea, generally speaking you don't have to put the car in tow when you change the batteries. As long as the connections are correct.

yamahaguy97 are you saying you don't have to Flip the Tow/Run switch to TOW before you disconnect the batteries cables to change the batteries???

Because if you are. You always want to flip The Tow/Run to TOW before you disconnect any wires or cables on a PDS or DCS drive system. Or you can burn up your controller

[yamahaguy97]

Originally Posted by rib33024

yamahaguy97 are you saying you don't have to Flip the Tow/Run switch to TOW before you disconnect the batteries cables to change the batteries???

Because if you are. You always want to flip The Tow/Run to TOW before you disconnect any wires or cables on a PDS or DCS drive system. Or you can burn up your controller

Yeah...probably should not have said it like that lol. No it should always be put in tow, what I really meant in this case I don't think by him changing the batteries he ruined the controller, unless something was crossed or connected wrong. But it appears that small mistake may have ruined it. Yeah, I retract that comment sorry