Ready for performance upgrades

[GOLFERDAN]

Ok, over the winter here in Ohio I've managed to complete some cosmetic upgrades to the cart. So far I've added carpet, some wood to the dash, a voltmeter, a lighter, seat covers, an enclosure, a heater, sewed and installed a Sunbrella Type Trim around the top, made a heater holder and trimmed with the same Sunbrella Material, pin striping and a Viet Nam Vet Decal. I replaced the ugly plastic thing holding the pivot point of the club cover with a couple of aluminum brackets. I cleaned and refinished battery tray and changed over to 4ga battery cables. I also just ordered 6 Crown CR235 batteries. (The old ones are 5 year old US2200 but I noticed some bulging when I took them out to redo the battery rack.) But Now I'm chomping at the bit to start a performance upgrade. Bear in mind this is a cart used on the golf course only. I really don't care much about additional speed. What I want is more torque and of course longevity. I suspect the new batteries will help with longevity but less slowing (or should I say crawling) up the hills would be nice. I will most likely never put larger tires than the 8" stock on it. It's a series non PDS 03 TXT Fleet cart. No run/tow switch and F/R on the seat bottom.

Where to start.... motor, controller, solenoid? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Also, As I mentioned, I upgraded the battery cables to 4ga but I did not upgrade the other high voltage cables. Would doing so much difference?

[scottyb]

A series cart for golf, I would use the Alltrax SR48400 control and SW180 solenoid combination.

[GOLFERDAN]

Using the stock motor would be ok with that combo, Scotty? And, That would help with the torque issue? Also do I need to replace the remaining 6 ga. cables with 4ga?

[scottyb]

Yes, the stock motor can be used with this control on 36 or 48v. I have mine on 42v = 7/6v batteries.
When the motor calls for amperage it flows through every cable and the F&R as well as the solenoid and controller. So everything should be upsized to avoid any bottleneck in the flow. 2 or 4 gauge cables and HD F&R iis needed, or a SW182 reversing contactor would be nice. I love the rocker shift on my series cart

This control will allow about 50% more amperage to flow (compared to stock) which the motor will use to make an equal amount of torque. Basically the stock motor is now being held back now and with this control it will make all the power it can.

[kernal]

Reversing contactor is only $30 more than the HD F/R switch. Electronic shifting by your knee. No more wrestling with that lever.

[orangeman6]

Originally Posted by kernal

Reversing contactor is only $30 more than the HD F/R switch. Electronic shifting by your knee. No more wrestling with that lever.

+1 on getting rid of that lever. You get a switch that is much easier to operate and remove a potential trouble spot in the system.

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

+1 on getting rid of that lever. You get a switch that is much easier to operate and remove a potential trouble spot in the system.

Get the "switch" and get rid of 5-million year old technology!! Well....Ok....maybe not 5-million years old.....but it sure felt like it.

[scottyb]

Funny history about the golf cart F&R. It's roots are in the electric elevator invention. You got it, big old rotating contact bars were manhandled to reverse the current flow and send the passenger cage in the opposite direction. So yeah....... it's about 1890 technology.

[DaveTM]

Well, all I can say is the reversing contactor is one of the best upgrades I've put on my cart. Just to flick the switch instead of the major "arm breaking" pull of the F/R switch is a big difference. I'd never go back to the F/R.

[GOLFERDAN]

Wow, if I get a reversing contactor I better keep the old F/R just in case I get an elevator to replace the steps!