Replaced mcor 4 but now having new problems

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You're running an Admiral A4, but you don't mention which controller you're using? If it's an Alltrax XCT, which I'm assuming it is, with that motor... Try hooking up to it with your laptop and turning off the "Speed Limit Enabled" check box. Save it and go out and drive your cart again. If the problem is fixed, replace the speed sensor on the motor. Bad speed sensors on the motor, when powered by an Alltrax can have that exact effect on a golf car that you're describing.

[Gregt909]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

You're running an Admiral A4, but you don't mention which controller you're using? If it's an Alltrax XCT, which I'm assuming it is, with that motor... Try hooking up to it with your laptop and turning off the "Speed Limit Enabled" check box. Save it and go out and drive your cart again. If the problem is fixed, replace the speed sensor on the motor. Bad speed sensors on the motor, when powered by an Alltrax can have that exact effect on a golf car that you're describing.

I have a 500 amp alltrax. Tried disabling the speed limit but no difference.

[scottyb]

53v is high 50.9 is fully charged, unless the pack is hot off the charger the meter is not reading right. What the meter read when the cart is shuddering ?

[Gregt909]

Originally Posted by scottyb

53v is high 50.9 is fully charged, unless the pack is hot off the charger the meter is not reading right. What the meter read when the cart is shuddering ?

That reading was with my hand held meter right off the charger. Now it reads 51 after sitting overnight and stays at 51 volts when pushing accelerator and causing cart to shutter.

[Sergio]

If the motor shudders but there is no load on the batteries, make sure the Solenoid is clicking and closing the contacts.

As suggested, running the Alltrax monitor function should make diagnostic easier.

[Gregt909]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If the motor shudders but there is no load on the batteries, make sure the Solenoid is clicking and closing the contacts.

As suggested, running the Alltrax monitor function should make diagnostic easier.

I do not hear the solenoid click.

In order to access my controller I have to remove 2 batteries. Do the batteries need to be connected in order for the monitor function to diagnose properly? I did click on that tab but nothing showed irregular.

[Sergio]

While the controller logic will power using the USB cable, it will not provide you with anything to monitor unless the cart is working.

Can You not reach from behind/underneath the cart and plug the USB cable to the controller?

[Gregt909]

Originally Posted by Sergio

While the controller logic will power using the USB cable, it will not provide you with anything to monitor unless the cart is working.

Can You not reach from behind/underneath the cart and plug the USB cable to the controller?

I’ll give that a try.

Not sure if this is relevant or not but I just noticed there’s no resistance when I push on the cart. Even with the key on and accelerated pressed in forward mode I only get very slight resistance when pushing backwards.

[Sergio]

Is your 2013 Precedent using the OBC or Eric?

Since it started after a charging cycle it could be a malfunction on the charger lockout circuit (the actual lockout function would prevent any movement whatsoever).

[Gregt909]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Is your 2013 Precedent using the OBC or Eric?

Since it started after a charging cycle it could be a malfunction on the charger lockout circuit (the actual lockout function would prevent any movement whatsoever).

It’s has the obc.

I did hook up the controller and got into the monitor tab. It’s showing my battery voltage at 50.2 volts at rest. My dash gauge (green lights gauge) shows full charge. When I turn on key and push accelerator the voltage drops on the monitor to 40-44 volt and red light comes on for low battery.