Club Car Villager Runs Slow

[tony.loyola]

hey guys. I have a club car villager that is running slow. we hooked up a scanner and it was not giving us any faults. the scanner does show the throttle giving out correct readings as the pedal was depressed. we replaced the speed sensor but it was still slow. what can be causing the car to go slow?

[tony.loyola]

also the car is 2010 model

[NoleFan4Ever]

How slow is slow? !/2 speed or how much slower then it was?

Brakes dragging?

Batteries going - what is the voltage when it is slow?

I assume this is a Sepex drive system(?)

Give us all the details you can....

[tony.loyola]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

How slow is slow? !/2 speed or how much slower then it was?

Brakes dragging?

Batteries going - what is the voltage when it is slow?

I assume this is a Sepex drive system(?)

Give us all the details you can....

It goes around 3.8 mph. Batteries are at around 47 volts when driving. no brake drag. it is a sepex speed controller

[BBBHC]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...s-48v_cart.jpg

Looks like batteries are the culprit...

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by tony.loyola

It goes around 3.8 mph. Batteries are at around 47 volts when driving. no brake drag. it is a sepex speed controller

You said you tested the throttle output and it was correct, lets test the controller output and see if it is telling the motor to run as it should.

With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground).
Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed. If it is not, then your controller has failed internally and is not sending the proper signal to the motor.

[tony.loyola]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

You said you tested the throttle output and it was correct, lets test the controller output and see if it is telling the motor to run as it should.

With key switch On, Run/Tow switch in the Run position, Fwd/Rev rocker switch in the Fwd position (and also have the back jacked up off the ground).
Get your DVM and place the black (–) probe at the motor A2 (white wire) and connect the red (+) probe at the motor A1 (green wire) and slowly depress the Go Pedal. When the MCOR closes (clicks), the voltage reading should increase from ~5vdc gradually going up to to approximately ~45-48vdc (could be higher) with the accelerator pedal fully pressed. If it is not, then your controller has failed internally and is not sending the proper signal to the motor.

Sorry for the late response. We did the test and we are not getting battery voltage at full pedal depress. It stays around 4Vdc. We are moving forward with the controller repair. Thank you for your help

[NoleFan4Ever]

Correct