Cart new to me, new set of batteries full charge barely moves

[rickstwowheels]

I bought a 1996 DS that I knew needed batteries. Before I replaced them it would run well for 100 yards and then it was dead. I bought new Trojan batteries. The OBC was already bypassed and the stock charger was being used with a relay bypass, I did not like that so I bought a new smart charger (Schauer) and it charges the batteries to over 55v. I wired the new batteries according to the available wiring diagrams online and everything is + to - all the way through and as mentioned before I get a full voltage reading across the whole pack. However when I switch it to drive or reverse it barely moves. It moves a little, but it is like the batteries are nearly dead, but I have verified that they are fully charged. I am sure I have done something wrong but I just can't guess what. I surely would appreciate any advise.

[NoleFan4Ever]

What is the pack voltage when you check it between the Main + and the Main - ?

And this should be 12 hours after your charge has completed.

How did you wire it? Pics?

[rickstwowheels]

Thank you for taking a look.

It has not been 12 hours yet so I will report back tomorrow.

I am struggling to post a picture but I wired it according to the diagram on this website about how and why to bypass the OBC.

https://www.impactbattery.com/blog/2...oard-computer/

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

What is the pack voltage when you check it between the Main + and the Main - ?

And this should be 12 hours after your charge has completed.

How did you wire it?

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is a Series cart (as long as it has a FNR lever by your leg - If it has a Fwd-Rev Rocker switch let me know) so for a "complete" bypass to where you can actually remove the OBC if you like would be by running a 10g jumper wire from the back side of the charge receptacle (where the black 10g wire is that goes into the harness towards the OBC) and run it to B- at the controller (the main pack Neg is just to test.) Also take the grey sense wire coming off the same receptacle and break it at the bullet fuse and roll it up out the way and secure it with a ty-wrap. Now take a 12g wire and run it from the B- at the controller and over to the small post on the main solenoid that has the small Yellow wire terminated. Now the OBC is completely bypassed and can be removed from the cart if you like.

Note- If you follow the 10g black wire from the charge receptacle up to the OBC you can cut it off there (at the OBC) and then cut the other 10g wire that runs from the OBC to the B- at the controller and butt connect them together. This will save you some work and complete the circuit quickly. The Yellow wire I mentioned is needed to supply the Neg (-) to the solenoid from B- as it use to come from the OBC.

How did you hook up your new Charger? It should have been almost Plug & Play.....

Note- The OEM Powerdrive charger would normally take your pack to ~63vdc....

[rickstwowheels]

It does have a FWD-REV rocker switch.

I just plugged the new charger in and it all went as the manual said it would. Amber light for a few hours then it changed to green.

[Mooncarter]

What is the serial number of that cart? The letter and next 4 numbers?

Does it have a "T" shaped controller?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by rickstwowheels

It does have a FWD-REV rocker switch.

I just plugged the new charger in and it all went as the manual said it would. Amber light for a few hours then it changed to green.

Then that would be a Regen 1 cart and they are a horse of another color. Does it still have the black factory "T" type controller?

[rickstwowheels]

A9635 is the serial number. I don't know about the controller, I will check and report back.

Originally Posted by Mooncarter

What is the serial number of that cart? The letter and next 4 numbers?

Does it have a "T" shaped controller?

[rickstwowheels]

I realize I am exposing my ignorance here but is the controller just underneath this area?

[bobwalter]

Those are Interstate batteries not Trojan. ???