wiring up switches, aux LED, USB Questions

[davjohn28]

just purchased brushguard and want to wire in 2 X 4" LED lights.
However im having trouble figuring out how to run wiring and switches. Id like to keep things clean by getting a 3 gang switch panel with volt meter and USB plug for when the phone or speaker may need charging while riding.
Id also like to remove the current headlight switch and wire lights on one of the switches, aux LEDs on one switch, USB on one switch, voltmeter and leave one switch open incase i want to add later.

I have 48V 20amp converter. I think 20amp is enough considering the very low amperage draw things id be using.

I have no clue how to wire the lights into a switch panel. Currently my headlights are on 3 prong plug and my aux LEDS came with 5 prong plug.
I bought an LED wiring kit just to keep things simple with the auxilary LEDS.


Q&A Time.

1.) It appears my factory headlights are wired to individual batteries ( see photo) I'd like to wire them through the converter to clean things up. Is it worth it or do they pull so little juice its fine to leave them?

2.) do i need a fuse block or should i mount converter in battery bay and run main hot and ground wire to front of cart and just split lights,voltmeter, etc off the mains?

3.) My Havoc body kit lights im not sure if they are 48V or 12V? I dont want to mess with the wiring and end up burning up the lights. My current Voltmeter is 48V so i was able to run it straight to batteries and run it to ignition switch so it doesnt stay on all the time.


For a noob what is the best way to add current headlights to switch panel and wire in new auxillary LEDs?

[golf cart man]

I always use a voltage reduce that is wired to a blue sea fuse block with negative buss bar. I get one that has at least 4-6 slots so that I have enough room to add accessories later on if I choose. In my opinion it doesn't matter how little you use the lights and any other accessories its always better to pull evenly from all batteries in the long run.

[davjohn28]

Originally Posted by golf cart man

I always use a voltage reduce that is wired to a blue sea fuse block with negative buss bar. I get one that has at least 4-6 slots so that I have enough room to add accessories later on if I choose. In my opinion it doesn't matter how little you use the lights and any other accessories its always better to pull evenly from all batteries in the long run.

my guess is that the lights from the havoc kit are 12 volt and were just wired up to individual batteries to make it work instead of adding converter?
The reason i ask is my current volt meter is wired 48V so ran it directly to the main positive and negative on the battery pack.

I just dont want to hook up my " factory " lights to the converter and risk damaging them... is there a way for me to confirm that they are 12V and will work fine on converter?