05 Precedent Just Stopped Moving

[TahoeDawgZ71]

following...

[mlanierjr]

Thanks for the tip about double wrenching, but I learned that many years ago the hard way. Is there an easy way to get to the motor if you have rear seats installed? I do have voltage to, dependent upon pedal depression, on the white and green wires leaving the controller in the battery compartment. I've just never had an electric motor quit without some indicator before.

Originally Posted by movin-on

I would test the motor next to rule it out...Put in tow..Remove pack neg...Disconnect the 4 cables from the motor and mark them...Double wrench the studs when removing the cables...Put your meter on continuity...

A1 to A2..beep

F1 to F2..beep

A1 to F1..no beep

A1 to motor body..no beep

F1 to motor body..no beep

[movin-on]

Originally Posted by mlanierjr

Thanks for the tip about double wrenching, but I learned that many years ago the hard way. Is there an easy way to get to the motor if you have rear seats installed? I do have voltage to, dependent upon pedal depression, on the white and green wires leaving the controller in the battery compartment. I've just never had an electric motor quit without some indicator before.

Jack it up and remove it from below....Did you test it...

[mlanierjr]

Sorry to take so long responding but the wife had a week long job related trip and the weather has been terrible. I finally had a chance to do some testing.

Originally Posted by movin-on

I would test the motor next to rule it out...Put in tow..Remove pack neg...Disconnect the 4 cables from the motor and mark them...Double wrench the studs when removing the cables...Put your meter on continuity...

A1 to A2..beep

F1 to F2..beep

A1 to F1..no beep

A1 to motor body..no beep

F1 to motor body..no beep

My results:

A1 to A2..no beep
F1 to F2..beep
A1 to F1..no beep
A1 to motor body..no beep
F1 to motor body..no beep
A1 moves up and down and moved back and forth before i removed the wire from the controller.
A1 does not spin freely. but does move freely over approximately a 270 degree arc.

Are my options rewind the motor or replace it?
I would like to use the stock controller until it quits and I have to be economical (cheap) with a wife, three kids, and two dogs!

[mlanierjr]

Originally Posted by movin-on

Jack it up and remove it from below....Did you test it...

That thing is heavy from a crawler!

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by mlanierjr

Sorry to take so long responding but the wife had a week long job related trip and the weather has been terrible. I finally had a chance to do some testing.

My results:

A1 to A2..no beep
F1 to F2..beep
A1 to F1..no beep
A1 to motor body..no beep
F1 to motor body..no beep
A1 moves up and down and moved back and forth before i removed the wire from the controller.
A1 does not spin freely. but does move freely over approximately a 270 degree arc.

Are my options rewind the motor or replace it?
I would like to use the stock controller until it quits and I have to be economical (cheap) with a wife, three kids, and two dogs!

There would be the issue. Time to go to the motor shop or upgrade your motor.

[mlanierjr]

Who would y'all recommend to rewind the motor or would it be better to buy a new one I would like a bit more torque, but would also like to retain my stock controller until it fails.

[NoleFan4Ever]

It probably just broken brush at the stud. Remove the motor and open it up and check it.

If you wanna beef it up, you can send it off to Plum Quick for a Bandit upgrade.

You can look here https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/motors for replacement motors to meet various needs.

[mlanierjr]

Took it apart today. Unfortunately it's a bit worse than a broken wire at the stud. I know I need brushes and the plate that holds them. Now I'm debating the cost difference between a new high torque motor and fixing this one. Brushes are from revolutiongolfcars.com
Motor Brush Package, for Club Car AMD/ADC IQ/Excel Motor
SKU: 102186201 $65.58 from http://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/ I always try to site sponsors, but I don't see the base plate, for lack of a better term, in motor repair parts.

suggestions are appreciated.

If the repair cost is 1/2 or less the cost of a upgraded motor I'll fix this motor. If more I'll get a new high torque motor that is compatible with the stock controller. When the controller and relay go I plan on upgrading to at least a 500amp controller. 2GA wires are already installed from the 4 to 6 battery conversion I did last year.
Thanks for your technical support.

[Fairtax4me]

Usually when a motor eats itself you end up with an internal short that also takes out the controller. Since it looks like only the armature cables were affected you might have got lucky. But then again, if you have the eventual plan to upgrade the controller anyway... now might be the time.
A brush holder and new brushes will probably be $150 or so in parts. And because there’s so little demand, it’s Hard to make that back even if you sell the motor. Can’t beat the combo deal on the new motor and controller...