Troubleshooting after Controller upgrade on TXT 48v

[Hill climber]

Please help!

I just finished installing the XCT 500 (tuned down to 400 amps) I got from @ScottyB along with the new heavy duty solenoid and cables. As a novice, I was surprised it worked on the first try, but that didn't last long.

I took it out for a test drive in my hilly neighborhood (more torque for hills was the reason for the upgrade), and while everything seemed to be working fine, I didn't notice any power or speed difference at all on a quick down the street and back ride. I came back and plugged in the FN-KS to see if adjusting the controller made any difference. While on a second ride up the hill I was adjusting the controls and it just stopped going.

I checked on everything I could by myself, and have the following conditions right now:
- Batteries still show a full charge of 51.1
- flipping run/tow switch off and on made the controller fan come on for just a second before going off
- solenoid clicks when I push accelerator maybe the first 3-5 times, then stops entirely. I left it to rest for a while and did the same thing - clicks a few times then stops.
- rolled it back home to plug in, but it is not taking a charge. Something is not telling the charger it can feed juice to the batteries.
- Fortunately no smoking, sparking, or burning smell. No cables, components, or motor felt overly hot.
- Attached a couple photos so you can point out if I wired something incorrectly

What should my next step be here? Thanks in advance to anyone who responds - I've found the forum extremely helpful during the research and upgrade process.

[JohnnieB]

First we need to identify exactly what your cart is.
Is it a PDS (pre 2010) that has been upgraded to 48V or a TXT48 (post 2010)?
There is a Red wire on the main positive terminal, so I suspect it is a TXT48.

Does it have tires taller than stock (18")?


In either case, the reason for the battery charger not work may be because the black wire from the charge receptacle isn't connected to the battery pack's main negative terminal.

Is the LED on the controller flashing any error codes?

Can you post a picture of Toolbox's Monitor screen?

[Hill climber]

Thanks for the reply - it's a 2016 TXT 48v with a 6" lift and 23" tires. Everything else is stock as far as I know.

Controller light is solid green when turned on. When give the accelerator a quick push, the solenoid clicks and light goes off for a second, then I get a one green one red flash that repeats once, then goes back to solid green. If I hold pedal down, it will repeat the green-red-green-red over and over continuously.

As for the toolkit screen - I only have iOS devices so tried to use the iPhone app and couldn't get it to connect via bluetooth. Some stuff on Alltrax's website indicates the XCT requires a minimum software requirement to do this, and either something's wrong or it doesn't have the update because it's not coming up as a discoverable device in the app. I would hope it would be the latest and greatest since I just purchased new?

Please let me know if there's any other details I can provide - I appreciate the help!

[JohnnieB]

The 1-Green 1-Red error code is a short or other fault in the output circuit. (See attached error code list and definition list)

The controller's output being referred to is between the M- and B+ terminals.
Disconnect the cables on the XCT's M- and B+ terminals and measure between the loose cables with an Ohmmeter. You should get at least 0.3Ω and no more than 1.0Ω.

Then disconnect the wires from the F1 and F2 terminals and measure between those two loose wires. You should read from 1.0Ω to 2.0Ω.

Then measure from one of the F wires to one of the cables and you should read an Open. (Infinite Ohms)

Then measure from one of the F wires to the motor case and you should read at least 5,000,000Ω.

If those readings are good, contact Alltrax.

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You need to have the optional Bluetooth module attached to the XCT to pair it with a Bluetooth device. https://alltraxinc.com/bluetooth/

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Are the 23" tires the low pressure type? (Less than 10 PSI max inflation pressure)

With 23" tall normal pressure tire, there is a 22% torque loss where rubber meets road and even more loss with low pressure tires, so the stock motor will be working very hard on the hills.

[Hill climber]

Just checked and now I'm worried - the reading between M- and B+ cables shows 0.0Ω. Actually, it started high when I first touched the rings and then quickly dropped down to zero where it stayed.

The F1 and F2 wire shows resistance of 1.2Ω. All good here.

F1 to the B+ cable showed 0.000. I'm a novice with the multimeter, but it did not beep like it does when it detects a complete path - so I'm guessing this means infinite ohms?

F1 to motor case shows 0.266 on the 2MillionΩ setting. Not sure I did this one right. I don't have a setting that goes up to 5million, and by motor case I assume you mean just touching the outside of the motor?

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As for tires - it looks like they're 20 PSI. I definitely noticed the lower torque on hills compared to experience with other carts on golf courses. That was the primary reason for the controller upgrade - wanted to make sure I can take the whole family (about 600 lbs) all around our hilly neighborhood. Is this controller, stock motor, and the 23" tires a realistic setup for that?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Hill climber

1. Just checked and now I'm worried - the reading between M- and B+ cables shows 0.0Ω. Actually, it started high when I first touched the rings and then quickly dropped down to zero where it stayed.

2. The F1 and F2 wire shows resistance of 1.2Ω. All good here.

3. F1 to the B+ cable showed 0.000. I'm a novice with the multimeter, but it did not beep like it does when it detects a complete path - so I'm guessing this means infinite ohms?

4. F1 to motor case shows 0.266 on the 2MillionΩ setting. Not sure I did this one right. I don't have a setting that goes up to 5million, and by motor case I assume you mean just touching the outside of the motor?

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5. As for tires - it looks like they're 20 PSI. I definitely noticed the lower torque on hills compared to experience with other carts on golf courses.

6. That was the primary reason for the controller upgrade - wanted to make sure I can take the whole family (about 600 lbs) all around our hilly neighborhood. Is this controller, stock motor, and the 23" tires a realistic setup for that?

1. Looks like a short, but might be the cables touching somewhere. Try measuring between the A1 & A2 studs on the motor. Use two wrenches to take cables off, hold the bottom nut so the stud doesn't turn. Bad things happen if it does.

2.

3. 0.000 typically means a short, but no continuity beep means an Open. So that is a mixed up reading of some kind.
What does the meter read when the test leads aren't touching anything? That is the reading you should get.

4. 0.266 on the 2MΩ scale = 266,000Ω, so it is a lot lower than it ought to be.
Low reading are typically caused by a build up of carbon dust from the brushes coating everything inside the motor and creating undesired conductive paths.

5. Cart at the golf course have stock height tires and as mentioned, your 23" tall tires reduces your carts torque by 22%, which would definitely be noticeable.

6. Tall tires, heavy loads and hills need a motor with more oomph than stock. I suspect they have taken out your stock TXT-48 motor, or at least have taken it well on its way to the end of its useful life.

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Try to drive cart with M- cable not connected and see if you still get the 1-Green 1-Red error code. If you don't the motor is bad.

You haven't mentioned any speed desires, but you can get an aftermarket motor with stock speed and higher torque or a much higher torque motor that isn't quite as fast a stock speed.

[scottyb]

For the BT module to work the phone must discover the unit first as a detectable device. You can do this by powering up the BT module (green light) the open the phone BT and search for discover-able devices. Do not connect, just let the phone recognize the device as an available device. lose the BT search on the phone and open the alltrax app. Let the app find and connect with the BT module.

Additionally you may need to cycle the BT module off and on to make it discover-able.

[Hill climber]

OK I've double checked things and have some interested behavior to report:

1. Checked A1 and A2 studs after removing the cables, and it did the same thing again - started high and descended down to 0.0Ω where it stayed.

2.Checked on the M- and B+ cables to the the F1 and F2 wires. In both cases, the black wire produced 1.3-1.4Ω reading, the white started high and declined down to 0.0Ω where it stayed.

3. Hooked everything back up except M- and tried to drive forward. The first time, the fault code gave the one green one red alternating light before going back to green. On second, third, and fourth tries, it would flash yellow before going back to green on its own.

4. Just for fun I hooked M- back up to see what would happen. To my surprise, it drove - but again, didn't seem like much speed or torque difference over the stock controller, and it only lasted for a short bit. After going about 20 feet up the first hill right outside my driveway, I heard lots of clicking (some definitely solenoid, but some maybe from the motor?) and then the cart just went limp - no movement forward or backward. After multiple attempts, if I kept the throttle low or drove on flat ground everything seemed to work fine - but as soon as I hit a hill it would sort of shut itself down. When testing in the driveway a quick press of the accelerator would sometimes produce a one green/one red fault code and other times it would just stay solid green. Now I'm really confused...

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Based on my set up - 48 volts, 23" tires in a hilly neighborhood, XCT500 controller, hauling family of 4 around for fun - is it realistic to think I can get along with the stock motor? I was under the impression it was... More speed is always nice, but it will ultimately come as lower priority to torque since we want the functionality of hauling family/friends around in a very hilly neighborhood.

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Getting back to fact that it won't take a charge - I checked and the positive and negative leads from the charger port appear to be connected properly. I did notice this fuse on the red wire, though. I have no idea if this is blown or not - maybe that's why it's not charging? Come to think of it, I'm not 100% sure I attached the fuse correctly between the main positive terminal to the solenoid. Could that have something to do with it? Picture of both attached.

Thank you for your help and attention so far!

[JohnnieB]

A stock TXT48 motor is sufficient to haul two golfers, their clubs and maybe some liquid refreshments around a groomed cart path that is roughly 6 miles long, making the trip in about 250 yard increments with several minutes of rest between increments. The trip repeated perhaps twice in one day.

If you want to run taller tires, carry heavier loads and climb steeper hills, you will have to upgrade the drive system (Controller, solenoid, high current cables and motor) accordingly.

Sounds like you have a suitable controller and solenoid. Don't know if you cables are stock or upgraded. They ought to be 2Ga for your application.

Your motor is sick.

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There are 4 wire coming out of the 48V charge receptacle.
1. Red ----- Goes to battery pack's Main Positive terminal (B+)
2. Black --- Goes to battery pack's Main Negative terminal (B-)
3. Blue ---- Goes to controller. (Disables cart when charger is plugged in)
4. Gray with black box at end. ------- Temperature sensor (Goes on any battery terminal - not an electrical connection)

The Black wire ought to be connected to the battery pack's main negative and it doesn't appear to be so in your picture. attached is edited version with main negative terminal circled in red.

[Hill climber]

Great catch - I did find the stray black wire that was never reattached. Charger working a-okay now

So if the motor is sick then it's sick. But I find it strange that I never had any issues until upgrading the controller/solenoid/2ga cables. Is it possible the new controller did this? Or just a coincidence that it would have given out whether or not I replace controller? Something else that isn't yet diagnosed? Just want make sure i don't fork over money for a new motor only to find that the issue isn't fixed...