2011 Precedent Very Very Strange Issue

[Z7What]

This past Friday i bought a 2011 Precedent for my wife as a Anniversary present. It has a brand new Alpha Body & Light Kit, brand new US Batteries & Code 4 Program.

Before driving it at all i charged it completely. Once it was fully charged the family and i went for a cruise around the neighborhood. It was so nice to finally have a cart to enjoy cruising around in. Everything worked exactly as it should.

Once we got back home i put it back on the charger. Later that evening we ended up going for another cruise, stopping at our neighbors house after cruising for 15-20mins. By this time it was dark outside i was out of beer. Got on the cart, turned the lights on and was heading to my house. Heres where it gets strange. With the lights on the cart only does 8MPHish. If i stop the cart, put in neutral, turn the lights off then to drive it goes full speed(high high teens). While doing full speed i can turn the lights on and the speed stays full speed but once i come to a stop and take off again, with the lights on, the cart only does 8MPHish.

Saturday & Sunday we road the cart, it is 100% flawless with the lights turned off. But if the lights are on top speed is 8MPHish.

How in the world is this possible? I called the place i ordered it from and they are puzzled. The only thing they can think it is, is the speed sensor so he is sending me one. Personally i dont think the sensor is a issue but it works flawlessly as long as the lights are off.

I was able to find only one other person with a 2013 Precedent and Alpha Body & Light Kit that said he had the same exact issue. He said once he installed a voltage reducer and hooked the lights up to it, he hasnt had a single issue again.

I planned to install a reducer anyways but curious how is it possible for the lights pulling from 2 batteries causing this issue?

Wayne

[Sergio]

That can happen depending on what they connected to the available black/yellow wire that is located near the key switch (behind the dash).

That wire is a negative wire intended for a low current voltage meter and it is shared with the speed sensor and the MCOR.

You can take the front panel off and see if they are using that wire and disconnect for testing.

Another typical issue when folks try to cut corners and not use a voltage reducer is which two batteries they tap from the pack for the 16cv.

On a Precedent if You really don't want to use a voltage reducer you can only use the first two batteries starting with the pack negative one since the 12v and the 48v share common negatives in the harness.


You should always put the cart on TOW and disconnect the pack negative cable before working on the electrical system.

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

That can happen depending on what they connected to the available black/yellow wire that is located near the key switch (behind the dash).

That wire is a negative wire intended for a low current voltage meter and it is shared with the speed sensor and the MCOR.

You can take the front panel off and see if they are using that wire and disconnect for testing.

Another typical issue when folks try to cut corners and not use a voltage reducer is which two batteries they tap from the pack for the 16cv.

On a Precedent if You really don't want to use a voltage reducer you can only use the first two batteries starting with the pack negative one since the 12v and the 48v share common negatives in the harness.


You should always put the cart on TOW and disconnect the pack negative cable before working on the electrical system.

IIRC the light harness doesn’t tie into any of the factory wiring behind the dash. The positive wire for the light harness goes directly to the battery +, the negative WAS going to a black wire with a yellow connector which is part of the factory harness near the OBC. I read that could be my issue so I moved it directly to the battery and the issue is still there.

I will be installing a reducer ASAP just trying to figure out why this is even a issue until I do so.

Wayne

[Sergio]

The 10ga black wire with the yellow female bullet connector in the battery compartment is the correct place to connect a reducer (or negative for 12v).

You should move the negative wire back to that connection when you get your converter since it is required for the OBC to account for the current being used by the 12v accessories.

The black/yellow wire I was referring to is a 16ga with a 1/4" female quick connector behind the dash.

If they are using that wire for anything other than the optional battery meter it will cause issues with your speed.

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The 10ga black wire with the yellow female bullet connector in the battery compartment is the correct place to connect a reducer (or negative for 12v).

You should move the negative wire back to that connection when you get your converter since it is required for the OBC to account for the current being used by the 12v accessories.

The black/yellow wire I was referring to is a 16ga with a 1/4" female quick connector behind the dash.

If they are using that wire for anything other than the optional battery meter it will cause issues with your speed.

That 10ga wire with the yellow female bullet connector was the wire they had the ground for the light kit hooked up to. I have since move it directly to the second battery. The positive wire was hooked directly to the battery.

So your saying when I install the reducer I SHOULD hook the ground to that 10ga? I was planning on hooking it up to the negative of the last battery and positive of the first battery, but instead I should hook up to that black 10ga?

Thanks for you help.

I still don’t get how a reducer will fix the issue. I’m hopeful it will fix it but don’t understand how.

Wayne

[Sergio]

Please be careful and don't move more wires until You fully understand what You are doing.

The 10ga black wire with yellow female bullet connector is the same voltage reference as the pack negative battery post, except it is on the other side of the OBC opening that measures the current being discharged from the battery.

The pack positive battery is #1 and the pack negative battery is #6, You should have 6 x 8v batteries.

It sounds like you have now put that connection on a different battery: "...I have since move it directly to the second battery.." and if not careful You will fry all of the 12v accessories.

Make sure you understand where to mount/connect this reducer You are ordering, that will make a difference on how you connect those two bucket harness wires, it is either to 48v or to the 12v output of the reducer.

If You have an IQ cart (S/N starts with "PQ11"), then don't worry about the black/yellow-strip wire in the dash, that only applies to Excel carts (S/N starts with "PH11").

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Please be careful and don't move more wires until You fully understand what You are doing.

The 10ga black wire with yellow female bullet connector is the same voltage reference as the pack negative battery post, except it is on the other side of the OBC opening that measures the current being discharged from the battery.

The pack positive battery is #1 and the pack negative battery is #6, You should have 6 x 8v batteries.

It sounds like you have now put that connection on a different battery: "...I have since move it directly to the second battery.." and if not careful You will fry all of the 12v accessories.

Make sure you understand where to mount/connect this reducer You are ordering, that will make a difference on how you connect those two bucket harness wires, it is either to 48v or to the 12v output of the reducer.

If You have an IQ cart (S/N starts with "PQ11"), then don't worry about the black/yellow-strip wire in the dash, that only applies to Excel carts (S/N starts with "PH11").

My S/N starts with PH11

I understand completely how to wire the lights to the reducer after installing the reducer. Infact I plan to rewire the lights completely while eliminating the original harness completely. I’m going to do this so the DRL and corner lights come on with the key but the headlights and taillights come in with the light switch. Yes I’ll be installing relays...

But now im questioning if the way I’ve hooked up the reducer in the past I’ve installed on other cars is correct. If im understanding you correctly your saying I should hook the + inlet of the reducer to the + terminal with the short blue wire. But instead of hooking the negative inlet of the reducer to the battery terminal that has the wire that goes straight through the OBC, I should connect it to the Black 10ga with the yellow bullet connector. Is that correct?

My understand was the OBC was only used for charging, why does it matter what ground I hook the inlet to the reducer too?

With all this said the lights originally, if I’m understanding you correct we’re installed correctly. Although over powered they were still correct. So how is it the cart only does 8ish with the lights on.



If your curious, yes I made the cables. Once I get this issue figured out I’ll be upgrading the rest of the wires. #1 Welding Lead

Wayne

[Sergio]

The OBC does a "coulomb count" charging so it measures the "energy units" being discharged and and it replenishes that energy when you charge.

If You connect the converter directly to the pack negative battery post then the OBC will not "count" the energy used by your accessories and it could undercharge the batteries.

You currently have it connected for 16v, what You called battery #2 is actually battery #6 (pack negative).

Anything larger than 2ga will not fit through the OBC so You will need to make a "stud" to go through the OBC and use a short cable in each side.

Do not try to enlarge the OBC opening or run the pack negative cable around the OBC as it will not work.

I would check that black/yellow-stripe wire by the key switch as it can cause your issue if something is connected to it.

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The OBC does a "coulomb count" charging so it measures the "energy units" being discharged and and it replenishes that energy when you charge.

If You connect the converter directly to the pack negative battery post then the OBC will not "count" the energy used by your accessories and it could undercharge the batteries.

You currently have it connected for 16v, what You called battery #2 is actually battery #6 (pack negative).

Anything larger than 2ga will not fit through the OBC so You will need to make a "stud" to go through the OBC and use a short cable in each side.

Do not try to enlarge the OBC opening or run the pack negative cable around the OBC as it will not work.

I would check that black/yellow-stripe wire by the key switch as it can cause your issue if something is connected to it.

Thanks for the help. I will check the black/yellow wire by the key in a few.

That’s great to know about how the OBC works, I’ll be sure to hook the reducer ground to the black 10ga wire with yellow bullet connector.

As for the wiring size, tell me if my plans are a bad idea or not. I know #2 is the biggest I can fit through the OBC. So my plans were to run #1(because I already have it) everywhere except the ground going through the OBC, I was going to use #2 for that.

Wayne

[Z7What]

If the black/yellow wire your referring to is by my thumb, nothing is connected to it.




On a side note, since it does have new batteries, would it be a good idea to reset the OBC? Do I reset it on a freshly charged pack? My cart is a Regen/Sepex correct?

Wayne