2011 Precedent Very Very Strange Issue

[NoleFan4Ever]

That is it....

[Sergio]

As far as resetting the OBC, that happens anytime the battery pack is disconnected for more than 10 minutes.

After the OBC resets, all of the data recorded about the energy removed from the pack since last charge is lost and the OBC does another "baseline" charge to determine the condition of the pack.

That information is used later to determine how much "overcharge" is needed, so it is important to let those first few cycles after the reset to complete without interruption and they will take longer than normal.

I did notice that your brake relay is by-passed behind the dash and since your existing 16v setup is "always on", if you have brake lights, even with a timer it will place a small load on those two batteries at all times.

Just to be safe measure each individual battery to make sure those two batteries used for 16v are not lower in voltage than the rest.

Use the 20v DC scale of your meter if it is not "auto-range".

[Sergio]

As far as upgrading the cable through the OBC if Your 2ga fits without forcing and you have a crimping tool that will work fine.

I used a brass stud for my connection since I did not have a good crimper at the time I upgraded the cables the first time:

[Wakko47]

Is there a good wiring diagram for the 5 wire voltage reducer for an OBC cart?

[Sergio]

The only requirement for the OBC carts is that the negative pack connection needs to come from Controller B- or any other wire that is connected to the other side of the OBC from the batteries.

You can run a single 10ga cable from the Controller B- to your negative buss-bar and then connect both negative wires from your 5-wire (non isolated) converter to the buss-bar.

The converter 48v input comes from pack positive with a fuse located near the battery post.

The converter 48v "trigger" wire connects to the key switch "switched" side.

The converter 12v positive output goes to your fuse box.

[Budule]

Originally Posted by Z7What

. By this time it was dark outside i was out of beer. Got on the cart, turned the lights on and was heading to my house.

Wayne

fix that first ....

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

As far as upgrading the cable through the OBC if Your 2ga fits without forcing and you have a crimping tool that will work fine.

I used a brass stud for my connection since I did not have a good crimper at the time I upgraded the cables the first time

Thanks! I do have a 16Ton Hydraulic Crimper. So ill continue with my plans to run all #1 wire throughout the cart with the exception of the negative wire going through the OCB, ill use #2 for that.

Originally Posted by Sergio

The only requirement for the OBC carts is that the negative pack connection needs to come from Controller B- or any other wire that is connected to the other side of the OBC from the batteries.

You can run a single 10ga cable from the Controller B- to your negative buss-bar and then connect both negative wires from your 5-wire (non isolated) converter to the buss-bar.

The converter 48v input comes from pack positive with a fuse located near the battery post.

The converter 48v "trigger" wire connects to the key switch "switched" side.

The converter 12v positive output goes to your fuse box.

The reducer i bought is a 5 wire 25 amp. It has Input - Wire, Input + Wire, Switch Wire , Output - Wire & Output + Wire. Based off your suggestion, the Black 10ga wire with the yellow bullet connector is what i planned to use for the INPUT - wire to the reducer. The INPUT + would be directly to the battery pack with a inline fuse. The SWITCH Wire would be hooked up to the key switch. The OUTPUT + would be going to a fuse box then from there into relays. As for the OUTPUT -, is it best to keep this as a stand alone ground for all future 12V accessories. Stand alone meaning not tying the output - into any existing grounds on the cart or can i tie it, along with all of future 12V grounds to the same black wire with yellow connector?

Wayne

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

As far as resetting the OBC, that happens anytime the battery pack is disconnected for more than 10 minutes.

After the OBC resets, all of the data recorded about the energy removed from the pack since last charge is lost and the OBC does another "baseline" charge to determine the condition of the pack.

That information is used later to determine how much "overcharge" is needed, so it is important to let those first few cycles after the reset to complete without interruption and they will take longer than normal.

I did notice that your brake relay is by-passed behind the dash and since your existing 16v setup is "always on", if you have brake lights, even with a timer it will place a small load on those two batteries at all times.

Just to be safe measure each individual battery to make sure those two batteries used for 16v are not lower in voltage than the rest.

Use the 20v DC scale of your meter if it is not "auto-range".

I do not have brake lights, only running lights which are only on when the switch is turned out. My meter doesnt read decimals, only whole numbers. After the very first charge i check the battery pack and it read 51V. I then checked each battery and if i remember correctly 3 batteries read 8V and the other 3 read 9V.

The cart has been plugged in since last night. Whenever i plug the charger in ive always been in a habit of flipping the Tow/Run switch to Tow. When i get home i will reset the OBC. Ill unplug the charger, disconnect the positive and negative pack wires and let sit for 10-15mins then reconnect the pack. Should i flip the switch from TOW to RUN before plugging the charger back in?

Thanks again for all your help.

Wayne

[Sergio]

Unless Your reducer specifically says "Isolated", and very few are, I would connect both negatives to the same bus-bar.

The negatives inside a regular converter are connected to each other and all negatives in the cart (12v and 48v) should be "common" and connected to each other.

Double check your individual battery voltages, I still don't have a good explanation how your lights could have any impact on the cart speed if only wired to those two batteries unless those batteries are very low in charge.

[Z7What]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Unless Your reducer specifically says "Isolated", and very few are, I would connect both negatives to the same bus-bar.

The negatives inside a regular converter are connected to each other and all negatives in the cart (12v and 48v) should be "common" and connected to each other.

Double check your individual battery voltages, I still don't have a good explanation how your lights could have any impact on the cart speed if only wired to those two batteries unless those batteries are very low in charge.

And just so we’re clear the bus bar would be wired to the cart via the black wire with yellow connector correct?

They are brand new batteries. I can hook the lights up to 2 other batteries to make sure, he’ll I can even bring a load tester from work and test each battery.

But I agree, nothing explains why the cart goes so slow with the lights on. It accelerates at the same speed as it does with the lights off but the top speed is 8ish with the lights on vs 18-20 with the lights off. But even if those 2 batteries batteries just so happen to be bad, it would also affect the speed of the cart and the lights don’t pull that much power to affect the cart that much. If I’m going full speed with the lights off and then turn the lights on, the cart still runs full speed. It’s not until I stop and take off again when it maxes out at 8ish.

Wayne