May have FRIED my Alltrax AXE

[Motohead342]

Originally Posted by Motohead342

The BLADE FUSE where the Ign Switch was connects a BLUE wire to an GREEN wire right behind the Dash Panel. I believe the instructions have me wiring 36v+ into the Blue wire, which ultimately feeds it into the GREEN wire via the BLADE FUSE(as the Ign Sw would do in the ON position),... and that goes into...IDK? The ITS? I need an OEM diagram to see where that GREEN wire goes. It disappears into the harness.

AGAIN: The issue is only with the FORWARD circuit.

[Motohead342]

I saw that one of the wires to REVERSE side DIODE was very close to one of the assembly mounting bolts which might have been the ground or short. I moved it and the short still occurs. REVERSE works great, FORWARD blows the fuse as soon as the solenoid clicks. POP!! The wiring all looks correct. IDK? Could the FORWARD Contactor have an internal flaw? They both use the same common wiring for Negative and Positive. Same wiring from the ITS. I'm puzzled. ????

[Motohead342]

The stuff I ordered from cartsunlimited on Saturday got here today, Tuesday. Outstanding!
Thanks Scotty.

[Motohead342]

Well, I gotta suck this up. I had the DIODE on the Forward side of the new contactors upside down. I have flipped it over, but the results are still the same, works in Reverse, blows the circuit in Forward. I do not have an Ign Sw, I have a 15 amp fuse there. It never blew before in 14 years, and it POPS HUGE now!!! Could I have damaged stuff? I checked the contactors with an ohm meter: B+ to S1 and S2 is open, A1 to S1 and S2 is closed with the F/R switch in N center position.

[JohnnieB]

There are two separate circuits in the reversing contactor and motor drive systems. The control circuit (Low Amps) and the motor circuit (High Amps).

The keyswitch (15A fuse in your cart), pedal switch, F/R toggle switch, all solenoid coils and the diodes are in the low amp control circuit. Plus the controller's electronics.

The motor's armature and stator windings and all the solenoid contacts are in the high amp circuit. Plus the controller's MOSFETs (speed control valve).

About the only thing the two circuits have in common electrically is they are powered by the same battery pack.

The 15A fuse you're using for a keyswitch is blowing, so the problem is low amp control circuit.

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If a diode was installed backward, it caused a direct short between B- and B+ and popped the 15A fuse when the pedal was pushed.

The diode Scottie suggested had a 3A rating and a 15A fuse was blown, so the diode that was installed backwards had at least 5 times its rated amps passed through it and diode can fail shorted as was as failing open, so I suspect that is what has happened. Only install known good diodes.

[Motohead342]

All of the wiring is correct. At this point I just want to BYPASS the entire F/R system and just bolt the cable ends together to get FORWARD. Does anyone know exactly which ones go where? I think it's B+ to S2, and A1 to S1. ??? At least I can eliminate the motor if it works, and isolate the issue to the motor if it does not.

[Motohead342]

JonnieB, thanks, Bro. I will install the new DIODE I just got from Scottie in a bit when I go back out...again. But, not holding out hope. It's a BIG ZAP! Like the 2 system are crossing. Motor Internals? That's why I wanna bypass the F/R system. B+ to S2 and A1 to S1,... just to get forward,.. right?

[Motohead342]

JONNIEB!!!!! You were RIGHT! It was the DIODE!! Thank you. It was my bad from the very start. I am humbled by your brilliance, and embarrassed by my ignorance. Thank you too, Scottie!! Direct mssgs from Scottie trying to help. Yer both way cool!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah, I had installed the crimp ons backwards so the Red + was actually on the negative side. It fried, and the system requires a good operating diode there to function. Now I know. God bless you, brothers. I'll toast to you. My real name is Michael Moore. I rarely tell anyone, thanks to Michael Moore. Ranch, Guns, Bibles. In SoCal. Life is good.

[JohnnieB]

Thanks for the feedback.