2006 Club Car DS OBC Bypass for Li Battery

[ACHiPo]

I’m swapping 6x8V FLA batteries for a LiFePO4 100ah pack on my 2006 DS. Part of the conversion will be replacing the charge port with an IEC receptacle. I found a good video on bypassing the OBC and have read the threads here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5cfkGv4ChY

From what I can tell I need to cut the 10g black wire at the OBC and remove the grey wire by cutting at the charge port and OBC. The 10g black wire needs to be routed to the negative battery terminal. The yellow wire between the solenoid and OBC gets cut at the OBC and spliced to run to the negative battery terminal.

Is that all I need to do? (Other than connecting the positive terminal to the positive wire harness)

The threads talk about splicing the blue and white wire at the OBC, but the video says that’s only necessary for Precedents?

[kgsc]

Well you didn’t state what drive system you have but this thread should tell you everything you need to do in the first couple of posts. https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=114227

[ACHiPo]

I’ve read that thread at least 5 times—all 11 pages. I still don’t understand it. I’m off to read it again.

“I think the White and Blue work better for all years IQ and Excel carts.”

What on earth does this mean? It’s like it’s extracted from the middle of a conversation. Maybe I need a decoder ring?

I’m pretty sure I have an IQ drive system. No idea if it is a Sepex system (or even what a Sepex system is)

[ACHiPo]

One other question: does the OBC bypass technique matter if I also do a Navitas AC upgrade? I was planning on doing the Li battery upgrade first, make sure everything works, then tear into the motor and controller. Maybe I d just do everything at once?

[kgsc]

If you have a push button FnR switch you have a sepex cart. Manual FnR, series. As for a Navitas conversion.. controller has nothing to do with the charging system or batteries but would be easier to do with nothing in the way. That said if you try to do it all at the same time you would have multiple possible failure posts when troubleshooting

[CP241]

As I understand it, if you convert to lithium you don’t need the obc. But the bypass needs to be done so the stock controller doesn’t go into lockout from not seeing the charge cycle. The navitas doesn’t need or want anything to do with the obc. So...

Unless I’m missing something here, if you did the controller and ac conversion at the same time as the lithium swap, you shouldn’t have to do anything to the obc or bypass. Just remove everything from the cart all at once.

If you’re concerned about failure points and making diagnosis difficult, I’d swap to the navitas first since that would be the more “difficult” swap. You can confirm it works and then the battery swap would be even more straight forward.

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by kgsc

If you have a push button FnR switch you have a sepex cart. Manual FnR, series.

This should be a sticky! (Or added to Sergio’s sticky)

Originally Posted by kgsc

As for a Navitas conversion.. controller has nothing to do with the charging system or batteries but would be easier to do with nothing in the way. That said if you try to do it all at the same time you would have multiple possible failure posts when troubleshooting

As I understand it, if you convert to lithium you don’t need the obc. But the bypass needs to be done so the stock controller doesn’t go into lockout from not seeing the charge cycle. The navitas doesn’t need or want anything to do with the obc. So...

Unless I’m missing something here, if you did the controller and ac conversion at the same time as the lithium swap, you shouldn’t have to do anything to the obc or bypass. Just remove everything from the cart all at once.

If you’re concerned about failure points and making diagnosis difficult, I’d swap to the navitas first since that would be the more “difficult” swap. You can confirm it works and then the battery swap would be even more straight forward.

Thank you. Both of these thongs make sense. And reading the sticky post did make more sense once I had the context of the video. There is just a lot of detailed discussion in the sticky which is very confusing when a newbie like me is looking for an explanation of what to do.

[simicrintz]

Hang in there, ACHI! These folks were AWESOME when I was doing my conversion and I could not have done it without them (I made a contribution to the page (note to self: need to make another) as these folks are spending their time helping us out and keeping us out of the shop). Stay humble (I am used to figuring stuff out but really needed these folks on numerous occasions, and it was humbling and appreciated) and open to their suggestions and you will succeed!!

[ACHiPo]

Motor installed and battery and controller wired.

The charge detect circuit (blue and white wires) is closed.

I wired in the 400a solenoid the same way the old solenoid was wired, with the right side going to the B+ on the controller, the little pink wire going to the run/tow switch, and the left side going to the B+ on the battery pack.

The B- is wired from the battery pack to the battery.

There does not seem to be a chassis ground (other than through the motor)? Is this correct?

[CP241]

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

Motor installed and battery and controller wired.

The charge detect circuit (blue and white wires) is closed.

I wired in the 400a solenoid the same way the old solenoid was wired, with the right side going to the B+ on the controller, the little pink wire going to the run/tow switch, and the left side going to the B+ on the battery pack.

The B- is wired from the battery pack to the battery.

There does not seem to be a chassis ground (other than through the motor)? Is this correct?

Electric carts should never ground to the chassis of the cart.