EZ-GOP Powerwise Qe charger Schematic?

[jeppy7]

If you were talking to me, my user name is actually Jeppy7 not Jelly lol. You can find the charger fault codes in the manual that comes with the charger when you by it from EZGO. Also you could call EZGO and I'm sure they will just tell you each fault code. Let me know if you need a copy of the codes.

[MightBeRight]

I'm sorry to say, but I've never seen R108 fail on its own. There are always other, difficult to fix problems in the tons of teenie-weenie parts in the charger (look on the other side of the PCB).

However, I have found that if the white tubular part is dead, the following parts MIGHT repair them. I guess 75% of chargers can be repaired like this. This part is labelled R29, btw.

And since I just may have recommended that someone repair a charger, I have to get all worried about safety. Therefore, here it is:
Repairing electronic equipment is dangerous. You can hurt yourself or others, and also burn your house down if you do anything wrong. It is very important to return the charger to as-new condition and not cut any corners, since you need the charger to be exactly the same as new so it will be as safe as it is when new. You will also need to be GOOD with a soldering iron. If you are not, you will damage the PCB, and then it will just blow up again. Also, use a magnifying glass. This stuff is too small to see with a naked eye.

Purchase and install the following: Big PCB - Q10, Q11, Q12: SPP17N80C3IN-ND; D1, D2: MUR180EGOS-ND, R29: 0.0QBK-ND. Small PCB: D1: GBJ1504-BPMS-ND, F1: F3331-ND. While you are in there, clean the PCB with alcohol and a toothbrush.

The manufacturer has kindly marked the designators on the PCB so they are easy enough to read.

Also while you are in there, replace any of the red, blue, or yellow female spade crimp terminals if they are there (the ones attaching wires to the PCBs). I notice they can sometimes overheat. Use a high quality part and crimp it properly. A $4 crimper from Walrus mart does not crimp properly, btw - so get a non-insulated part and solder it if you are not sure. There are tons on Digi-key, so buy the best one you can find and take the time to do a good job. Make sure the terminals are tight on the male as well. Gently tighten them with pliers if not.

The above numbers are Digikey numbers (www.digikey.com). I have left the instructions somewhat vague, for the simple reason that if you think you need more information to begin, then you should not. This is not an easy repair, and not for someone who is not well versed in the repair of electronics. Also, make sure to look away from the charger when you plug it in - in case little bits fly out! And don't turn it on with the lid off - that's just asking for it. All the other normal warnings apply too - use one hand to plug it in (so you don't make a circuit through your heart), and don't stand in a puddle of water, etc.

If you are really good (and I mean really good), then you can whittle the list down since usually some of the parts are still good. You might save $10, but if you get it wrong, then you will let all the magic smoke out again and have to start over...

Hope this helps - I hate to see these perfectly good chargers go in our already full landfills just because no one knows how to fix them.

[deanche]

well you might be right, but then a schematic of the beast sure would help in taming it. I also have aquired a textron 915-3610 with no output. The little led doesn't light so I don't have any codes to convey. But both of the internal fuses are ok, so it looks like a hard failure of one or another solid state device. diode scr rectifier what ever. If I had a schematic I could possibly trouble shoot this device. I any one can help me aquire one it would be greatly appriciated.

[w1a2ll]

R108 is 29 Ohms I believe..MightBeRight, would you happen to know the part# for R108

[MightBeRight]

Sorry I don't have a number offhand, but this part never seemed very critical to me. Any old resistor with that approximate value and physical size seems to work. That's the good news... Unfortunately, I have also never had much success with a unit with an R108 failure. Therefore, do not buy this part until you have figured out what else is wrong. Jumper it and use a current limited supply to power the unit (about 15 to 20V and a few hundred milliamps to the battery connections). There is always something else wrong that is really difficult to find. Check T2 and T3 for open windings, they fail very occasionally, but are easy to diagnose. Anything else and I just don't try any more. As often as not the microcontroller is gone, and though the part is easily to buy, there is no way to get the code for it. With the power supply (and no AC) you can start to diagnose. I look for warm parts, but realize that just because the power supply parts are warm, doesn't mean they are dead - but something else likely is. Sorry, that's all I know about R108...no flashing light means bad news.

[w1a2ll]

Thanks for your insight mightberight.You seem very knowledgeable on these chargers. I had one that was giving a #2 fault code and I noticed the solder joints for the relay looked to have gotten over heated I replaced it and now it charges fine for about 5 minutes and the relay starts clicking on and off green light flashes with each click and it is actually charging the batteries..I've also noticed on the 915-3610 (black one) the relay has 5 pins and on the 917-3610 (silver one) four pins but the holes are the same on both boards..any thoughts?

[MightBeRight]

Hi w1a2ll - 2 flashes is a voltage error. Usually this refers to the battery (that's what it says in the manual), but I've also gleaned this is a more generic voltage fault. As such - I'm going to guess that either the repair did not go swimmingly or there continues to be some other voltage drop internal or external to the charger that should not be there. I've seen a few different relays used in these chargers, but the easiest to get might be the Omron G8P type. This is a standard relay footprint, so it should not be too hard to get. If the PCB was burnt, I suspect the relay is likely damaged too - so best replace it at the same time, which I could not tell if you did. Interestingly, I have seen one or two of these now, and replacing the relay seemed to be sufficient. Make sure your soldering is good - since this is a full current connection. In the older, black 36V units, make sure you replace the yellow crimp spade connectors on the output cable with good ones. This is another source of the same symptom. I suspect you'll be looking at the relay, a broken wire, or some connection somewhere... Don't forget to check the golf cart connector too. Happy debugging!

[MightBeRight]

Sorry - forgot to mention - the datasheets for these relays show both four and five pin versions - the missing pin is connected in parallel with one of the other pins so not to worry. It seems some manufacturers have the extra pin, and some do not.

[w1a2ll]

Ended up replacing the A/C board (small board) with another and it fixed the problem go figure...So we know these chargers are repairable I have fixed dozens with various issues but the fault code 6 is kickin my butt..Someone out there has got to have a fix for the fault code 6 on these chargers...ANYONE????

[danchalf14]

I need a new small board for the 915-3610 as it looks like I have blown out an MOV or a small capacitor labeled V1. Has anyone changed V1 and cured the problem?