G1 spits and sputters

[HookSet]

I have been working on getting my G1 up and running and here is where I am.

New Crank Seals, clean fuel, clean carb, new fuel lines, 120psi compression and good strong spark.

The problem is the thing just spits and sputters and "tries" to start but never takes off and runs. It's really close just won't take off and go. I'm wondering if the timing is off just a bit from the crank seal install, but I put the timing plate back in the same spot according to the screw marks.

Any help out there for this old girl? Would really like to get it running.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[HookSet]

I read a bit here and am wondering if my air box not being tightly sealed may be part of my problem. The bands broke and I have fashioned some straps, but they aren't as tight, could that be causing my issue?

[mikeasis]

the loose clamps may cause a lean condition but I don't think a no start. pull the fuel line going into the carb and make sure you are getting a stream of fuel.

the coil plate has a raised notch in it that aligns with 2 notches in the cases for timing marks.

[Bryan Edmondson]

Pull your spark plug clean it with a wire brush. Check the gap. I had same problem. So i thought just maybe the plug gap wasn't right. I pulled the fairly new plug out and cleaned and checked gap. Reinstalled plug... boom it fired right up.

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[Field6565]

Originally Posted by HookSet

I read a bit here and am wondering if my air box not being tightly sealed may be part of my problem. The bands broke and I have fashioned some straps, but they aren't as tight, could that be causing my issue?

This wouldn't be a problem on a G1. More common on the J38 motors ( G2/G9)
Make sure the butterfly in the exhaust is opening when the gas is pressed. I doubt its the timing because it would likely start in reverse if it would not start in forward. Make sure the intake boot is not cracked and sucking air.

[Lochlin]

Compression is good and spark is there so you should be focusing your attention on fuel. Do what Mike said and make sure that fuel is getting to the carb via pulling the line. You should have a surprising amount of fuel squirting from that pump. If not then your pump is bad or you have an air leak upstream.

Assuming your pump is doing its thing properly then you probably aren't drawing fuel from the carb to the cylinder. A new reed valve may be in order.

You can try to adjust the float in your carb bowl as well but, normally, those will allow a cart to start but then bog out after a while when the bowl gets low.

Those carts are very easy to time. I wouldn't think that would be the issue.

[HookSet]

OK, I know for sure I have fuel getting there and verified it last night. Solid stream.

On the reeds, I checked those Sunday and they were not seating all the way at the bottom. I "adjusted them" and got them to seal up I thought but I'll check them tonight. I didn't just blindly order reeds because they are a little spendy, but if that's what it takes I'll send for them.

What is a good source for them? I have been getting parts from BuggiesUnlimited and Vintage Golf Cars but will take suggestions too.

Thanks for the help.

[Lochlin]

Yeah, those reeds can be pricey. They are all China made now so I just Google and let price determine the supplier.

A test for reed valves is that, looking inside the reed from the direction that air / fuel mix would be traveling, you should see no light coming from where the leaves set on the box. Perhaps the slightest sliver of light would be doable but anything more than that means the reed needs replaced.

[mikeasis]

you can still find OE reeds not cheap but not to terrible

OE part number 10V-13613-01

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10V-13613-0...ss!34293!US!-1

[HookSet]

Thanks everyone!

Are the reeds supposed to be flat or do they have a bend to them?