2001 Club Car DS all new everything wont run!

[CustomCurt]

has anyone programmed the parameters for the controller?

[Tom47]

Are you sure the F/R switch is wired correctly? Are the jumpers between 1-3 and 3-1 installed?

Just a hunch...You might try this: First, disconnect the pack positive wire. Then run a wire directly from B+ on the controller to S-2 on the motor. Then run a wire from S-1 on the motor to A-1 on the motor. Connect the pack positive back up and try to drive it in forward. It will only run in forward like this. If it does run, the F/R switch is defective or wired incorrectly.

[smally1989]

Hey Curt I just responded to you on a private message. Yes Alltrax walked me through the program. They had me use there software to record a snap shot of what the controller is seeing when I push down the peddle for a few seconds. Alltrax said I have an over current alarm and were drawing about 500+ amps at the motor and around 300+ amps at the controller. Their explanation now is its either the motor or the controller. Since were on our second new motor Im going to guess controller lol but thats all I know at this point. i'm keeping this controller over the weekend before I send it back to them. Nothing has ever grounded our or arched since all of this new hardware and wiring has gone on the cart. Batteries are new and holding great This has just been crazy

[smally1989]

No switch on this model car Tom shes to old

[CP241]

I’ve just read this a little closer and you said the key switch shorted/arced on something?

My thoughts are that should never happen. The 48v system should be completely isolated from the frame so even if the key switch touched, nothing should happen.

Do you have 48-12v converters, lights, anything else that may somehow tie the battery pack into the chassis? Either by a failed component or accidental short somewhere in the wiring?


Check for voltage between the frame and the pack positive terminal, and also from the frame to the pack negative terminal. Both with key on and key off. You should not have any voltage whatsoever

[RallyPac]

I answered this on the other site.

[smally1989]

Originally Posted by CP241

I’ve just read this a little closer and you said the key switch shorted/arced on something?

My thoughts are that should never happen. The 48v system should be completely isolated from the frame so even if the key switch touched, nothing should happen.

Do you have 48-12v converters, lights, anything else that may somehow tie the battery pack into the chassis? Either by a failed component or accidental short somewhere in the wiring?


Check for voltage between the frame and the pack positive terminal, and also from the frame to the pack negative terminal. Both with key on and key off. You should not have any voltage whatsoever

I will give it a try. Once we realized the extent of our problems we did terminate any thing we could that did not directly effect the carts movement . Reverse buzzer on head lights tail lights horn etc. we basically have a key switch and our major components no bells or whistles. lol

[smally1989]

Just checked voltage on both sides of the pack to the frame. key on and key off. zero for both.

[smally1989]

Originally Posted by RallyPac

I answered this on the other site.

Other site?

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by smally1989

No switch on this model car Tom shes to old

It doesn't have a forward/ reverse switch??? That's what the F/R switch is and what I was referring to.