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Old 09-17-2021, 11:28 AM   #11
AGELE55
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

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Originally Posted by tennbamaman View Post
AGELE55, since my buggy project serial number is J24-000246 and its a 1983 model, is it possible mine does not have that relay? My wiring diagram for g1A3 does not show a relay coming from the pedal switch. Everything we have discussed still makes sense, just your wiring diagram is a little different than the one i had printed. Not sure which one is more accurate for my buggy.
Oops…yep, you are correct again. My schematic lists a1,2,4,5 and skips a3. I’ll dig up an A3 schematic…

Ummmm… so looking at a G3 schematic, it’s very similar, but you’re right. They eliminated the relay for G3 only, but back again for G4 and up. Odd.
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Old 09-17-2021, 11:42 AM   #12
AGELE55
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

I’m wondering.. by eliminating the relay, the current load across the pedal switch would increase. Maybe your pedal switch is a little “crusty”, where you may be seeing 12v, but not allowing the amperage needed due to fouled contacts. Got to be a reason they put it back in the circuit..lol.
You may want to test ohms across the pedal switch. Should read around .5 to 1 ish ohms. Maybe 4 or 5 tops.
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Old 09-17-2021, 12:51 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

The latest and strangest update. Far from the one i expected and i would have lost money on this one. I jumped the white wire that always shows 12 volts when pedal is pressed to the yellow wire thinking it would activate solenoid and starter. It did nothing. I thought, since i had already proven this test to work, i ran a longer wire straight to solenoid and jump it from there. I verified the jumper end had power and it did. Removed blue and yellow wire at solenoid and touched jumper to one at a time. Nothing. Tested voltage while it was touching the solenoid post and 0 voltage. It appears that when i touch the white wire jumper to the solenoid all the voltage goes away instantly. Obviously something is wrong. I placed jumper back to positive post on battery and back to solenoid as i did a couple days ago and motor activates flawlessly.

HMMMMMM, lol Ground? Short? Several days ago where the wires had been cut, i attached a 10 amp fuse holder on the ground line where i thought the wiring diagram showed it. I also attached a ground wire to the top of the plastic on the motor as i thought that is where it went. There is a ground wire attached to the body of the cart that was there when i got it and it looks like it has always been there.
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:22 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

Testing ohms? I tested ohms on starter / generator based upon a previous post and i used the red and green wire coming from the starter. It tested as it should. Hate to be dumb about electrical, but i am, lol. How do i test the ohms at the switch. Red and white wire connector? Is there a way to test the ground?
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:24 PM   #15
AGELE55
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

Ok…let’s stick with what we know. The solenoids operate with power directly from the battery, but when that same power is routed through the two in line switches the solenoids don’t work.
Read my previous post about the pedal switch.
This reeks of grungy wires, or a fried switch. Ohm out the pedal switch and see what you get. Also ring out the wires from end to end and see if they’re reading high resistance. Then try your jumper from different points along the circuit, eliminating chunks of wire.
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:28 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

Maybe the back up horn not working is some type of indicator. it worked for a bit and then quit working a few days ago as well. is it possible to test it direct as well. I called myself trying to but it did nothing. maybe because of the same problem.
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:47 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

ok, this afternoon i will try to test the ohms of the switch. When testing the ohms on the switch, do i test the white and red wire at the same time? Im guessing i do this with pedal pushed down. Sorry but im electrical stupid.
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Old 09-17-2021, 01:56 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

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Originally Posted by tennbamaman View Post
ok, this afternoon i will try to test the ohms of the switch. When testing the ohms on the switch, do i test the white and red wire at the same time? Im guessing i do this with pedal pushed down. Sorry but im electrical stupid.
You can do it all together and also in different sections of wire to isolate anythbad readings. Yeah, start end to end — R/W from the battery (With battery disconnected) all the way to the solenoid yellow and or blue. With th ignition switch on and the pedal pressed you should see , ideally less than an ohm. If it’s high, start isolating different segments to see where the resistance is coming from.
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Old 09-17-2021, 03:08 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

Are you sure the it doesn’t have the delay relay? bypass it by removing the relay and installing a jumper between the 2 white wires. How did you verify the model year? Engine or chassis? My understanding was the delay relay wasn’t added until 82 but it’s speculation. Maybe the engine and or harness got changed at some point. As much as the G1 changed it stayed the same. I’ve had 7 of these things and find new things all the time.Check for the extra little black box on the fender should be slightly further back than the CDI iirc.

Also did you verify the high voltage cables were installed correctly. Check here
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...t=76176&page=6
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Old 09-17-2021, 06:03 PM   #20
AGELE55
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Default Re: 1983 G1 ignition and starter switch woes

Quote:
Originally Posted by tennbamaman View Post
Testing ohms? I tested ohms on starter / generator based upon a previous post and i used the red and green wire coming from the starter. It tested as it should. Hate to be dumb about electrical, but i am, lol. How do i test the ohms at the switch. Red and white wire connector? Is there a way to test the ground?
Sorry, I glazed over on this question. To test continuity on the switch, use the R/W & W wires. Put the red meter lead on one wire and the black lead on the other. Activate the switch and it should read less than 1 ohm. The other half of the switch uses the B/W & B wires and works opposite, but should also read less than 1 ohm when activated.
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