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Old 07-07-2010, 07:18 PM   #21
TheNewGuy
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

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Originally Posted by sho305 View Post
It looks like I could mount the adapter without the spacer behind it at all, against the shoulder, and it still would be out more than stock...though that might work ok. From what I know you want the clutch as close to the block as you can, but I don't know how far the adapter goes into the clutch didn't play with that. I will work on it more this weekend try to get the yam clutch mounted and then make a motor mount for it....going to keep the generator too this might be interesting. Hope it turns that hog over it has plenty of compression....can always use the starter if we have to I suppose but don't want it to work that way.

After that will have to build the airbox and exhaust. Have some 3/4 alum going to try to make a carb spacer with the pickup for the fuel pump.
I drilled a hole in the original carb spacer and sealed a piece of ss tubing in the hole then clamped on the fuel pump pulse line. Works great. Take some pics.

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Old 07-07-2010, 09:58 PM   #22
sho305
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

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I drilled a hole in the original carb spacer and sealed a piece of ss tubing in the hole then clamped on the fuel pump pulse line. Works great. Take some pics.
I hear you, but I read on one of the performance sites a 1" spacer the engine made more power....lol...and the drillpress is sitting there. Have some of those press in nylon hose connectors going to try those...kind they use for water filters and air lines.

I'll be taking photos for sure have to duplicate this stuff on my cart later once its all figured out.
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:11 PM   #23
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Will a GX390 or clone fit in a non-lifted cart?
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:47 PM   #24
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

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Will a GX390 or clone fit in a non-lifted cart?
The clone GX does not really have an issue with seat clearance so it should.
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:22 PM   #25
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Ok put some hours into the clone motor and good and bad news. Started off we cut the crank to 1 1/8" the minimum to fit the spacer or there was no way the recoil would fit in the cart. So we cut over 1.5" off or so, anyway put the adapter on the crank with no spacer, right on the shoulder and it mounted up just fine. Had to drill a lot and tap the crank too before cutting it.

So then made the mount, that was not too bad used 1.25" tubing to space the front down and laid 2x3/8 plates across to mount that way the oil can run out the plug in the center. Welded onto stock mounts, took a while to line up and drill new holes to mount motor/etc., but it went well and looks good. This put the rear on top of the stock mount and front 1.25 under it, retains the stock generator and rubber mounts for all of it. It ends up the motor is higher to clear the governor shaft on the trans, level the rear of the motor is slightly higher (its all higher because the stock motor hangs below the mounts). There is about .5" between the recoil and gas tank, but the air goes in under the recoil on the sides anyway. Turned the recoil upwards and it pulls ok from beside the cart. The rear holes near line up with the stock rear holes to fit stock belt, had to weld the new plates right over the old mount.

Then came the pita part, the carb is like <3" from the rear shock and this is cutting the crank off the max amount, so I don't know how others deal with this. After some engineering we finally stuck a 1.25 pipe nipple into the side of the stock airbox and will make a plate to replace the outer half of it. We plan to run 2" PVC above the carb then to the rubber hose and airbox out of a chevy cavilier we found for $10 at a boneyard lol. The hose may get pinched slightly against the large tube behind the seat and the motor on a big bump, but its like 3" should be fine. Will mount the box roughly above where stock one was but off of the frame not motor frame. Then going to run 2" pvc to the front of the cart hope it works for clean cool air without slowing it down.

Then on to the exhaust, found a small car muffler for $10 too that has a 13" case. Going to mount that behind the trans across for now and see what it does. Making a hack exhaust with 1.25 pipe 90s and little piece of flex pipe since the engine is on rubber and motor frame is not. May change this later going to look for a different muffler. He is getting the parts this week may try to get it done next weekend. Its full of oil ready to go, have to make the generator mount for the top yet but pretty simple, all belts seem to fit fine. Also going to try to fit a rod to run the choke off the stock choke cable on the throttle linkage I made. Took the governor shaft arm and cut it down, drilled it, made a plate to mount it and put it all above the fan housing. Have to look up the cart wiring in the manual and see if I can use a relay to jump the ignition. The motor seems to run like a lawn engine and kills it by grounding the ignition. However it is not wired like the manual says have to find out about that too can't find the rectifier...though I could use the key to run it and test it.

Going to leave the key in there so one could turn it on and run it non-stop I guess. Going to make little jumper wires to hook the positive and negative from the generator to the new motor.

What it really needs is an intake to move the carb, that is the sore spot with this deal. The stock filter is worthless for the massive dust that gets under our carts, and it will not fit anyway.

Before all that I took the side case off the motor and removed the governor. The shaft comes out tapped that for a plug or fuel pump. Had to press out the shaft in the side case to remove the gear/weight deal. Took it apart and pressed the pin back in, put it back together. It does have a balance shaft in it btw.

If we get lucky and it all works we might be pulling wheelies next weekend....lol. This cart does have a cut secondary on it otherwise stock and clutch is rebuilt and belts are near new.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:04 PM   #26
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Guy said he put the exhaust on, mounted the muffler, hooked it all up, but did not start it had to get fuel line. May be able to get it going this weekend he is getting pipe for intake tomorrow and fitting for fuel pump pulse....if we run into no more issues.

I did post the carrolstream 16hp this is says Lifan on the bottom of the sticker right? Also says some funny stuff in the manual like 15hp rated, and the wiring diagram is not right can't find the rectifier. There is some thing in the oil sensor wiring as well wonder if its a delay.
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:19 PM   #27
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Finished it up this weekend, put 10hrs into it on Sat. Yeah, not really wanting to swear on this thread but wow. Yeah its fun but sure took some time, figure roughly the pair of us have 4 full days into it but the next one would be much faster. Still have some issues to fix, the governor shaft hole blows oil into the fuel pump going to make a little separator for that and if that does not work will change to the intake. But have to drop the rear shocks loose and lower the engine frame to get at the carb mind you....even though its a pretty fast operation to do so. Piped the intake to the front with 2" pvc it worked well, you can still hear the carb growl out the pipe lol. The exhaust, well it turned out to be some little turbo muffler so its not that quiet it thumps like a 25hp single kohler, or half a quiet harley maybe. He likes it so far.

It seemed to run ok so off we went on a test run and it would not run past half throttle without some choke, jetting was way off. I hogged the jet many times, its something around .050" now and I think it needs a little more it still misses when you step on it cold. Thing has some power but seems to not have a bunch out of the hole, the stock clutch engages so low. However his brakes are pretty bad so I could not power brake it to see what it would do once it revved a little. After about 10' it takes off much better than stock. It does still lay down some on top end but didn't want to rev it really hard yet. I think it needs more timing, the intake and exhaust must flow well or it would not have needed so much jetting. I'll let it get broke in and see what I can do later, the gas tank comes right out to get at the flywheel. I had two people on it and turned at very slow speed and hit the gas, it spun the right tire no problem on dirt/gravel. I know the guy on that side is heavier than me he is easily 225lb. 22" trailpro tires. Response at 3-20mph is great, it takes right off even at 1/3 throttle. Above that it is not as strong but does climb better than stock.

The stock generator works great with it, I can tell you if you want to cheat you can get a recoil engine and use the generator. Just leave the engine key on and set the idle to not idle but die. It works like a normal cart, since the engine ignition is self powered it does not matter. I had the wrong relay going to put one on to ground the ignition and kill it when you let off the gas....can run it right off the cart wire that runs the ignitor and leave all the stock wiring right there. At least according to the diagrams it seems to work that way.

I could not find the rectifier so I have to test it and see if it has one in the block, does not appear to be in the key box. It does seem to have a wire for charging. I'll find out if it runs the battery down lol but did not seem to. The engine starter also works well, cranked it with that some when the fuel pump got plugged with oil. Alternately it looks like everyone mounts the pump above the engine and its not, the stock hose mounted under the cylinder down low on the yami engine. Have some photos to load, no video but did take one just starting the engine.

Another thing is it pops a couple times when you slow down, not loud or anything, but I have to find out how to mod the carb so I can set the idle mix. It has a plug or something, so I'd recommend checking all that out before you install as I can hardly get at the carb. Also have to cut part of the airbox rear off it has a thing to keep the float bowl from falling off or something, so to jet it I had to cut that off with a stanley knife.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:57 AM   #28
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Where is everybody? Anyway, so I plan to look up a few things. It appears they put a blank threaded stud into the idle mix on the side of the flange and locktited it. Maybe I can figure out how to put a slot in it but likely you have to heat it to get it out anyway, some say soak it with penetrating oil. It needs to be richer to stop the popping on slowdown. If you search youtube for clone carburetor one of the parts places Stout has a nice video of one, think its the 6.5hp but it is near the same. He tears it down and talks about the e tubes and so on. Since these are EPA carbs you can't adjust much. The idle you pop the cover off and can turn it. I will look into the adjustable jet kits for them that would be ideal to tune it in. Lots of stuff available for big block gokarts using them or using the parts from them, they put this carb on built 6.5hp engines.

Also want to investigate what timing it should be at and how to check it. You can cut the key down and advance it, not even buy an offset one but they are pretty cheap. I think it would pull harder on top. I'd guess I had it at or above top speed with my stock cart, we were on dirt so that would be 28mph gps, and I let off plus it would plug the fuel pump soon after. Will try to remember to have my gps next time. On top of all that, that is with 15psi in my rear tires and all his tires were soft and we had two people in it. The lean idle circuit might also be cutting power on takeoff before it revs some, for all I know it still needs to be richer on the main since it needs to run a minute before it will take wot. What did you guys do with your jetting or did you run an airbox that cut the flow?

That leads me to speculate that while the float bowl is easy to get at this way, I would really like to make an intake to move the carb elsewhere. I'll try to get some pics loaded here.

Wonderful hand made throttle and choke linkages from yours truly that need some paint. One uses the original governor arm, the other is just 1/8x1/2 steel and some rod we had. And look three ways to start it up!


Note the very tight fit aribox to rear shock, you better chop a lot of crank off or change the carb mounting on a Yami or it aint going to fit! Or, I see some bought mounts use a longer belt but we did not it is aligned same as stock. I did the intake and he did the exhaust, might change exhaust anyway. IIRC he used the stock yami flange on the exhaust to head. We had some conduit to use that would have fit, but remember the engine is in rubber mounts. BTW it does seem pretty smooth really, I didn't feel any vibrations through the cart more than stock really...maybe a hair around idle speeds but not much.


Bottoms up, note the oil drain right there. Heck this was the easy part.


Sweet GM airbox worked out great, we did have to cut the elbows shorter to get it low enough to clear the seat. Replacement filters should be cheap if they ever get dirty. The pipe comes out between the top bolts of the front shocks, actually where stock ones would be since there are lift brackets lowering the shocks there. Its right behind the 'yamaha' badge on the front. He spraycanned the pvc I will not bother on mine, is kind of ugly in white however. Note the airbox is mounted to the frame not engine cradle, so the huge car hose takes up the movement and the pvc is mounted under cart with a exhaust clamp welded to the frame near the gas pedal. That top tube behind the seat will crush the big hose a little when I jump on the rear bumper but its so big should not matter....and that is why the hose goes just under the tube to above the carb. There is a mount here to hold the pvc on the carb box that box is not that HD, but stronger with the plate inside it sealing it up.


Now I have to get one of these in my cart! My inlaw will be blowing by me every chance he gets until then.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:32 PM   #29
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

This really should be in the big block section, but after reading a lot in there I didn't find that much info for G2/9s. Hope this addresses some issues for those, will have to post a link to this in the big block section.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:33 PM   #30
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Default Re: The CLONE engine setup & specs thread

Nice install...lots of good info.

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