G2 differential, G1 axles and chassis, and swingarm flip

[Wvbuzzmaster]

Ok, a quick opener to the project. I have a mid 1980s Yamaha G1 that I am going to install a Predator 420 into, and have a G2 differntial I am using to obtain reverse. I have the G2 differntial bolted between the G1 axles/housings and bolted to the swing arm, and as others found there is no room to add the driven pulley in this configuration. So I thought about rotating the G2 differntial one set of holes upward in the housings to gain that clearance, but it will hit the shock mounting crossmember. So this is where my brain started working. Instead of shimming on top of the swing arm for the clearance, and given I am doing a custom engine mount anyway, and want a couple inches of lift, I could flip the swing arm upside down (axle housings flip left to right with the swingarm flip) and install the differential rightside up and rotated upward the one set of holes on the housings, the shocks would bolt back on higher, and I gain probably 3-4 inches rear lift overall and pulley clearance (i think) without dropping the swingarm any for the lift. Does anyone have any thoughts or concerns as to this being a good plan or not? I am planning to do this on Saturday if there aren't any concerns with this setup.

[slonomo]

There's no harm in trying that. As long as the trans/axle is mounted with the clutch on top, I don't think it will care where the swingarm is. I say give it a try and check it for clearance. It doesn't sound like you'll ruin anything by doing that, so you can always go back. You'll have to weld on new shock mounts etc anyway. The air filter box mount will not be an issue. As long as it all bolts up without any clearance problems it should work.

Oh...and....

[smokindawg]

Everything has been done once to give it a try. If it worked, others follow suit if the need too.

When I put the G2 differential in my G1 I put short spacers in between the mounting plates and then heated up the swing arm and dented it just like many do to the frame when lifting the G1.

What your planning too do will most likely work with no problem as far as operating. You will lose the protection of the cross member for your differential. You may also have to switch your brake backing plates so that the pulls are the right direction. There may or may not be an issue with the belt and pulley due to the cross brace in the swing arm.

This is the brace I'm talking about. The piece down the center is part of the original G1 mount I welded in for support for my previous engine to mount.


This will however give you lift and clearance for the differential.

I'm in the middle of putting a different/bigger engine in my cart. I rotated my rear differential one hole but shouldn't have clearance issues. I had already built a drop into my swing arm and also moved it back. So it should all fit just fine.

I think the easiest fix would be to dent the swing arm for clearance, but I say if you have the time, try your fix. As said, if it weren't for trying different things, we might not even have lifted carts.

Try it, see how it fits. Nothing that can't be changed easily if it doesn't work like you want it too.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Make sure and post pictures.

[smokindawg]

I also meant to mention, one axle is a different length than the other. This could change the position of your pulley on the differential. Without looking at mine I'm not sure which direction it will move it.

If it moves it to the drivers side, this will cause even more clearance problems between your drive pulley and frame.

I'm working on mine today, so I'll let you know what I think later on.

[Cvans]

Going to be fun to see how your project comes along.
Good luck!

[Wvbuzzmaster]

Smokin dawg,

Looking at your picture I spot a flaw in my plan. Axle tube to edge of pulley distance looks too short to fit the trailing arm between it.... I may be going the spacer route. What were you using for spacers?

[smokindawg]

I do see what you mean. I actually dented my swing arm to give the pulley partial clearance and then used the spacers.

I just used washers too space the axle tubes, 3 under each mount hole. But you can make the spacers out of whatever you wanted too.

Just remember, the more spacer you use, the lower you drop your swing arm, taking away ground clearance.

And I did measure the axle tubes. I guess with the clutch there it made the tube look shorter, because they both measure the same length.

[gray horse]

If you use the G2 axles, the driver's side is longer moving the differential to the right. This will help if you are using the stock mounting location for the motor. If you use the G1 axles, as I did, put 1" spacers between the rearend and the swingarm mounts. This will give you enough clearance without having to dent the frame. Works good if you are going to fab up a new motor mount. I used 1" aluminum flat stock to make my spacers. I also moved my gas tank to the opposite side to avoid any contact with the drive clutch.

Good luck on the build. Keep us informed as to how it goes.

[smokindawg]

Glad you checked in here Gray Horse. I used the G1 axles and it moved the clutch over. Now causing some problems with the size of new engine and location of the clutch on the frame.

I'm going to have to move the tank and probably notch out a section of frame to make it fit. But should work out well.

Buzzmaster, if you use the original G2 axles and tubes you can probably flip and mount the swing arm on top. But you'll have to check it out to make sure.

[Cvans]

I used the G2 differential with the G1 tubes and axles. Cut them to length and welded them back together with the differential rotated to the correct angle for the diesel installation. This way the correct mounting points were on the axle tube to mount it back onto the G1 swing arm.