1997 48V Club Car DS help needed

[Ron Meloni]

Hello all. I'm having a big issue with my '97 Club Car DS. It was certainly a project purchase, but now think it's one that I may not be up for. A bit out of my comfort zone and experience level. After following the wiring diagram, everything seems to be where it needs to be. No blown fuses. No broken or corroded wires. The reverse buzzer works, but I have no power, even after a good bit of charge. I know I'll need some new batteries, but shouldn't I get some sort of movement out of it? Is there any quick way to find out if it's a speed controller, motor or potentiometer? I've replaced the FWD/REV switch, solenoid, key and charge receptacle because the all needed it, but have yet to get even the slightest bit of power or movement. Could it be simply the batteries? Thanks in advance for the help.

Ron

[Storm S]

Originally Posted by Ron Meloni

Hello all. I'm having a big issue with my '97 Club Car DS. It was certainly a project purchase, but now think it's one that I may not be up for. A bit out of my comfort zone and experience level. After following the wiring diagram, everything seems to be where it needs to be. No blown fuses. No broken or corroded wires. The reverse buzzer works, but I have no power, even after a good bit of charge. I know I'll need some new batteries, but shouldn't I get some sort of movement out of it? Is there any quick way to find out if it's a speed controller, motor or potentiometer? I've replaced the FWD/REV switch, solenoid, key and charge receptacle because the all needed it, but have yet to get even the slightest bit of power or movement. Could it be simply the batteries? Thanks in advance for the help.

Ron

Depending on how bad off your batteries are NO they may not take any charge at all. Pop the vent caps and see if there is even "water" in the batteries. I have seen them bone dry before from sitting.

When you step on the accelerator pedal do you hear the solenoid click?

You can test the motor by putting a jumper wire from A1 - S1 and then using a standard 12v car battery put positive to A2 and negative to S2. MAKE SURE YOUR REAR END IS JACKED UP OFF THE GROUND! If your motor is good then the cart will move.

I am new to all of this but have learned a lot so far from the great people here. I have also figured out controllers go bad A LOT.

[scotter]

For motor test, make sure to completely label and remove all cables from motor BEFORE doing test. Better yet, take a picture with your phone!

[Ron Meloni]

Yes, there is a click, but it sounds like it's coming from the potentiometer underneath the cart and not the solenoid. The batteries do maintain a full water level. Thanks for the help.

Ron

[Storm S]

Take a multi meter an put it in continuity mode. One lead on each large lug of the solenoid. See if you get 0.0 or close to it. Let us knOw.

[Ron Meloni]

Nothing close to zero on the multimeter. Is that bad?

[Storm S]

Originally Posted by Ron Meloni

Nothing close to zero on the multimeter. Is that bad?

Means the solenoid is not engaging. The question is why. Does your solenoid have a thin yellow wire on one of the tWo smaller lugs? If so ..... make a jumper wire from that lug to -48. Remember to remove the yellow wire. Do not damage it. This may only be temporary. Press your pedal and see if the cart moves. Let us know.

[Ron Meloni]

Here's what is looks like. I hope I'm even referring to the correct part. If not, I apologize for wasting everyone's time, but understand your help is greatly appreciated. If it is correct, do I simply unplug the top yellow wire and make a jumper? If so, to what?

Thanks again,

Ron

[Ron Meloni]

[Storm S]

just because I'm not sure still being new and your solenoid looks different it might just be the style can you post a few photos of the rest of your electronics to make sure you have what I think you have? motor speed controller fr switch and if you have a charging computer it would be hanging in the back. Sorry I just wanna make sure before I tried to go any further.