85 ish Gas EZGO Starter/Generator Wiring Issue

[Tjax1970]

Hi, I have an ezgo (probably and 85 year model), which has stopped engaging the generator/starter. I am trying to troubleshoot, but am confused with the meter readings I am getting.. I feel like a switch or solenoid is bad..

The Starter/Generator is a Hitachi GSB107-03 and I have had this cart for years and has run like a champ.. I have not changed any of the wiring.

When I run a wire from the motor frame ground to the F2 post on the starter/generator, it starts right up... so I know my starter/generator is good.

What is confusing me is that when I put a v meter on the solenoid, all posts are hot, all posts on the starter/generator are hot and both of my key switch posts are hot when in the ON position and one is off when in the OFF position and the gas peddle when pressed makes them both them both hot even with Key in the OFF position, which I assume is correct...

Any suggestions on what and how to trouble shoot to see what is failing?

Thx!

[cart around]

Are you sure that you are connecting a ground wire to F2?
That is a Field connection that is connected directly to the positive side of the battery through the solenoid. It should never have a ground connected to it.


Have you had the battery out lately? Is it connected backwards?


The pdf file is your manual. Study section L.

[cart around]

Originally Posted by Tjax1970

the gas peddle when pressed makes them both hot even with Key in the OFF position, which I assume is correct...


Thx!

No, that is not correct.

The pedal switch is in series with the key switch. One side of the key switch is always hot. The key feeds the pedal. Pressing the pedal should only produce power with the key on.

What is your meter set on, and exactly where are you placing each probe?

[Tjax1970]

I put a new battery in last season, but it was working fine and I have verified it is correctly installed +/-

I connect my meter's black wire to the neg. battery terminal or the motor ground wire and then touch the meter's red wire to the two posts on the key switch, alternating the test on each post and then turning the key between the on and off positions and testing each post in every possible combination.

As for my test on the F2 post of the generator, I am certain that is what I did with a jumper wire between the neg. terminal on batter and the F2 connector on the generator. (it is wired as you stated with the F2 coming from the solenoid), so I am confused... why are all posts on the generator and the solenoid and the 4 connectors on the Forward/N/Reverse Switch all reading 12 volts even with key switch off and pedal not being pressed?

thx for any thoughts/suggestions...

[cart around]

I can only go by what you are describing, and what you are describing should have blown up the battery by now.


When you put the jumper on F2, did you also step on the pedal to engage the solenoid, or did the starter start turning immediately on its own?

You say it ran great. The engine started, and ran great, or just the starter started turning?


It kind of sounds like the starter is being fed voltage from the wrong direction. I would maybe suspect the FnR switch. I have to go throw some fire wood right now. When I get back, I will describe each individual circuit, and ask some more questions.

[cart around]

Put your black meter lead on the negative battery terminal, and the red lead on F2. You shouldn't have any voltage there at all, but I'm curious if the meter reads +12 volts, or -12 volts. (key off, pedal up.)


If it reads -12 volts, that would confirm that the starter is being fed from the A (armature) terminals.

Have you installed any accessories that could be shorting out?

Lights?
Radio?
Jacuzzi tub?


There are 4 big lugs on the back of the FnR switch. Terminal C is at the bottom. It is connected to ground. Check for voltage between C, and the negative battery post. There should be continuity when set to ohms, but no voltage.

[Tjax1970]

Thank you very much "Cart Around" these are good suggestions, I will try and get home early and do these tests today.

To answer your questions, yes i did install a radio, but a few years ago. I will remove all of those connections completely to see if that resolves it or at least identifies if they are causing any shorts...

I have a feeling in is in the F/R switch, but hopefully your tests will help me get there.. I may have to pull the connections from the F/R to fully trouble shoot, but will have to refer to the manual you sent to get the correct flows if bypassing the solenoid... solenoid could potentially be the issues as well...

thx again.. I will post results later..

[cart around]

This is the control circuit.
Starting at the positive battery lug, there is a large cable that goes to the solenoid. That's where a small wire splits off. It is connected in series with the fuse, and then the hot side of the key switch. (The hot side of the key switch may have a second wire going to the microswitch on the driver's side of the FnR switch. That micro switch is for the backup buzzer. It's highly possible that wire is shorting to your FnR switch.)

Continuing on.
From the switched side of the key, a wire goes to the pedal switch. From the pedal switch a wire goes to a small terminal on the solenoid. The other small terminal on the solenoid goes to ground which is supposed to be the bottom lug of the FnR switch.

You should have no power anywhere else until the key is on, and the pedal is depressed. I'm really surprised that the fuse hasn't blown yet.

[Tjax1970]

Problem Solved... thx to everyone who responded for your assistance. After tracing back from the wiring diagram that was sent and following CartArounds advice and comments, I discovered that the ground wire (Red) that was supposed to be connected to ground was connected to the + batter terminal, along with the other red wire that was leading to the solenoid. I am guessing this was done when we removed the air horn from the cart a few months back, which was wired to the batter terminal posts, so whoever did this made an assumption that the red wire needed to be put back on the + terminal...

Im surprised the batter or something else did not fry...

Anyway, thx again to all...