Yamaha G2 governor bypass. Sluggish CART!

[Jim Dandy]

heres some pics.

The ignitor looks like it has a Mitsubishi symbol on it??? Is there any way to know if it's a Yamaha OEM ignitor?
Pic 2 is the Coil???

[Jim Dandy]

haha! now that I see the pic on full screen after posting do I see it says right on it, "ignitor" Hey! I might not be very smart but at least Im slow

[Jim Dandy]

Ok, so I took the tape off the wires that lead to the plug that seats in the bottom of the OEM ignitor. Are these the wires you are talking about? I assume I should cut the plug off leaving enough room to re-attach the plug in case I ever want to go back to the OEM ignitor?

Please see attached Pic #1 (OEM Ignitor Plug). If you look at it and cross reference with Pic #2 (Yamaha Wiring Diagram) you will see that the diagram is different. The plug has two empty spaces without any wires are on the right and If you orient the plug with the two empty spaces on the right and look at the diagram then the wires top and bottom are reversed. Regardless, If I have the wire colors correctly identified as I think I do and according the Yamaha's diagram, then I should be able to use your "chrysler ignitor wiring for yamaha G9 diagram" and simply cut off the OEM plug and use connectors and wire to run to the two Dodge Dart parts, "MasterPro Ignition Module" and the "Ballast resistor"

Pic #3 is your "Chrysler" diagram changed to reflect the ignitor plug on my G2 - seem correct?

If Im thinking correctly here with the above scenario, I have a couple of questions.

1. where is the coil?
2. are the wires I labeled in yellow in pic #1 not used at all? simply abandon them? or is two of these wires for the Coil+ and Coil- if so which two?

Thanks for your help!!! Sorry to be pesky, I just want to understand and pictures are worth a 1000 words so they say. I am absolutely horrible at reading wiring diagrams other than basically where the go. Im no good at any of the symbols meanings.

Thank You!!

[CP241]

The round thing under the valve cover is your ignition coil. One the end of that is your spark plug wire.

As for the colors, I'm honestly not 100% sure... my harness was pretty jacked up when I bought the cart so I made my own harness. In the morning when I get my computer turned on I can look at the G2 wiring diagram and cross it to mine. But it may be easier to just wire it by itself aside from the white/red and white/black. Just leave yourself some slack to reconnect those if you decide to someday in the future.

[CP241]

OK just looked...

Red/white is the power wire that is turned on when the solenoid is activated. It's the same red/white wire at the solenoid, you could just run a new wire there if it is easier.

The wire you have in question that runs from the ballast resistor to the coil does not exist in the cart. IT's easier to just run your own wire here. It will replace the red/white wire at the ignition coil.

The orange wire runs to the (-) terminal at the ignition coil. (the other wire you had questioned)

white/red, white/black, and ground are pretty self-explanatory.


If I were wiring it up again, I would just leave the factory connector alone and run all my own wires to everything except the white/black and white/red. Make sure you have a good ground going to the mounting hole on the ignition module though, there is no ground wire to hook up. The ignition module gets its ground when mounted to the metal chassis of the car. I just used a bolt/nut and an eyelet and bolted the eyelet of the ground wire to the ignition module.

[spriddle]

Wow, CP241 you've got some good knowledge!!! I'm personally interested in this module mod you came up with. That's awesome!!!!

And yes, the G2 has a built in kickdown in the ignition module which acts about like another governor. It's absolutely no fun!

[CP241]

Originally Posted by spriddle

Wow, CP241 you've got some good knowledge!!! I'm personally interested in this module mod you came up with. That's awesome!!!!

And yes, the G2 has a built in kickdown in the ignition module which acts about like another governor. It's absolutely no fun!

Thanks. Though I can't take all the credit, I found an ancient thread on here about it when I was going through countless ignitors on my G9 trying to get the thing to run. However the diagram in that thread was backwards, and overall really hard to follow so once I figured out what they were doing and trying to say, I tried to put together a diagram that's much easier to follow. And at $30 it definitely beats $350-400 for an OEM ignitor! I used my OEM ignition coil, but I did help another member here that was local to me and he used a $20 chrysler ignition coil on his G8 so I have confirmed that will work as well. Can't beat having less tied up into the entire ignition system than just the OEM coil alone costs

It doesn't have any ignition advance like the OEM G9 does, though from what I understand the G2 doesn't have ignition advance anyway. But I didn't notice any performance difference at all. IT always fired up instantly, ran very smooth (even in 100 degree GA Summer heat), never overheated, and had more than enough power to pull me, my wife, and 4 or 5 kids around (however many wanted to squeeze on the cart lol). If I had it to do again, I'd do it exactly the same way.

[G1-G9]

I learned how to bypass the solenoid with this relay.

[Jim Dandy]

Thank you CP241, Im headed to the shop to get this sorted out. I'll report back my findings!

[Jim Dandy]

Well, I did the conversion! It worked perfectly and started right up. Only issue is that it did NOT solve my problem. My cart still runs like horse #$%^ on incline. I looked real hard again at the carb and noticed that it says, "Mokuni" and not Mikuni. Which is the correct OEM carb? The mechanic I picked this up from did tell me that he replaced the carb with an OEM.... Hmmmmmm. I wonder if this could actually be my problem!?!