DPI charger problem (Yamaha)

[whistlebritches]

Older Yamaha cart, 48v. Has a DPI charger, model # 48014-04. Power LED does not come on, and the charger does not charge. My friend said the PCB was bad, so we called DPI and got one, replaced it-and there is no change. There is a relay in the back of the case, when plugged in, I do not hear the relay "click".

At this point I'm lost. Got any ideas to get me pointed in the right direction?

[rstacy]

1) What is the total battery pack voltage? The charger will not kick on if the pack voltage is too low.

2) Does the charger PCB perform the self test when the DC cord is plugged in to the car?

3)The relay often fails. If you got past steps one and two, try tapping the relay with a screwdriver. It may need to be replaced.

[whistlebritches]

no self test

I charged pack with another known-good charger. after charging, pack voltage is 50.77v, and has remained steady.

the relay is a new relay, however it is different than the old one. I left the old relay installed. I can't figure out how to wire the new one. New one is 5 pins, old one is 4. Nothing is marked on the relay, and there are no instructions. I guess they assume everyone knows how to do it. Dunno.

[rstacy]

The self test requires two things.

1)A good PCB (we can assume that you have one). You probably have two.

2) 40+ volts to the PCB with the correct polarity.. The relay good or bad wont stop the self test.

You probably don't have 2 bad PCB boards.
Now you need to check to see if the DC cable is passing the battery pack voltage from the car to the PCB.
I was repairing a DPI charger a while back and found that someone had reversed the DC wires on me.

Note: I had to make a correction to my first reply.
My line said "2) Does the charger PCB perform the self test when the DC cord is plugged in to the charger?"

What it should have said is "2) Does the charger PCB perform the self test when the DC cord is plugged in to the car?"

The car battery voltage provides the required voltage to the charger to perform the self test.

[whistlebritches]

update. I forgot about this thread. The issue is solved.

DPI inadvertently sent a new PCB, but it is different than the original, and their instructions are for the original style PCB which is NLA. Also the relay is wired a little differently. After several calls to DPI I got them to give me some more information, at which time the engineering department realized that the board had changed but the instructions did not. Another call back an hour or so later, with verbal instructions on which wires go where, and it works like it is supposed to now. The young man I spoke with said that I was the only person who had questioned this issue to his knowledge, and indicated that they are going to have to change their instruction sheets, but there was no telling how many of these PCB's were sent out with incorrect instructions.

In short, one of the pins is missing, or more specifically not labeled on the PCB, and hidden behind a cap. So not only at first glance is P3 missing, then you have to figure out which one of the other unused pins the extra wire goes to. Should you guess or? We got it figured out, finally.

Original PCB was, in fact, dead. Once inspected I found a burnt trace on the back side where it was not visible while still inside the case. Could be repaired but what else is damaged?